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Cedar Bluff

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A: Playground Wall -Detention Area 
Above Detention Wall 
B: Little Big Wall 
C: PG Wall -Coal House Area 
D: Bouldering 

Cedar Bluff  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.5188, -89.02746 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,525
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Jan 29, 2015
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Description 

Thanks to the South/Southwest facing cliffs, Cedar Bluff is a great destination on any Sunny winter day. The Southern exposure creates a micro climate on the wall and temperatures average 10-20 degrees warmer on the wall.

Cedar Bluff is comprised of 30+ routes/problems along a half mile cliff band. The 80-90 ft tall cliffs provide a great resource for anyone desiring to practice multi pitch. The site contains 5 multi-pitch routes and over a dozen routes at or below 5.10 and you can set up a top rope on every one of them. The bouldering at Cedar Bluff ranges primarily from V0-V5, but there are harder lines and even unfinished projects on the site. If you come for bouldering, bring brushes to give the stone a little TLC.

Getting There 

From the south, take Interstate 24 north or Interstate 57 north.

On Interstate 24, go to Tunnel Hill Road, west (left) to Rte. 37, left to Buncombe (a small town, easy to miss), turn right (west) at Main street, go about a block to Lick Creek Road; make a right onto Lick Creek Road and stay on it until you come to Cedar Grove Road on your right (a sharp right turn).

From the south on Interstate 57, go north to Lick Creek Road.

From the north, get to Interstate 57, go south to Lick Creek Road.

From Interstate 57, on Lick Creek Road, go east to Cedar Grove Road on your left (almost immediately after passing Draper's Bluff on your left).

Take Cedar Grove road to the church, park in the lot, to the right side (be nice, quiet, and polite) as far from the church as you can reasonably get; don't use the outhouse. Follow the trail to the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.7 miles from here

45 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',8],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cedar Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cedar Bluff :
Mike's Meander   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Cave City   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Africa   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Dizzy   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Dos Equis   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   C: PG Wall -Coal House Area
Fear of Flying   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Detention   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Ghosts and Goblins   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 70'   C: PG Wall -Coal House Area
Schoolyard Blues   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   C: PG Wall -Coal House Area
Let's Play Doctor   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   A: Playground Wall -Detenti...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cedar Bluff

Featured Route For Cedar Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Ghosts and Goblins

Ghosts and Goblins 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Illinois : Cedar Bluff : C: PG Wall -Coal House Area
Climb the large rounded arete with a psychological crux at 2/3 height ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Illinois

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