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Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Vasya Vorotnikov
Page Views: 1,197
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Aug 27, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Hard moves on thin holds


One of the newer hard problems in the area, this is unfortunately only climbable when the stream dries up and the lagoon in the pit is gone. Starting in the pit, climb the steep face on bad crimps and pinches until you can reach around the left arete to a sidepull flake before finishing up. You may want to pad the low angle slab behind you in case of a backflop.


This problem climbs the overhanging face left of Kalbro. Climb the into the pit to reach the start.


Pads, spotter

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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 28, 2013

Can anybody offer up more details about how this line starts and what the general line of travel is? Do you immediately move left from the start to the arete or is it more diagonal?
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Aug 28, 2013

If I remember correctly, it starts standing on the lowest usable hold and stays on the face, climbing diagonally up to the sidepull around the arete up high.
By Graham O.
Jul 21, 2016

As an addition to Christian's question: after gaining the arete, do you commit to that heinous and terrifying direct top out or traverse the arete right a bit to the lip. To me, it looks like traversing the lip would make at less sketchy, less difficult, less contrived, and better. However, if that's not the case I would love to hear about it.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Dec 29, 2016
rating: V11- 8A

Climbing this was a lot more fun than I was expecting it to be. The movement is great and the holds are really unique. If it weren't for the first couple chossy holds and the bad landing I could see this getting 3 or maybe even 4 stars. As it is its still a pretty good line. The landing can be protected with 4 pads and the slab behind you really doesn't come into play until the last couple of moves. Footage of this climb starts at 6:26.

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