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Intensive Care Slab
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CDFT Route T 
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CDFT Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ralph Tingey & Rich Ream, 1965
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: thehackattacks on Apr 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The bonus pitch...if ye dare. Tricky entrance move...

  • The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The obvious dihedral crack system on the Intensive Care Wall. This quality yet forgotten Tingey route has lieback, undercling along with jamming and the rock is surprisingly good for how little traffic it receives. A bonus pitch is done by taking the rough chimney up through the roof system, although I found no set anchors at the top and just lowered off a tree.
    And now, a message from the First Ascensionist:

    "I climbed it with Rich Ream in 1965. When we were about half way up, a fellow in the archives parking lot yelled at us, "Come Down From There!" Hence the acronym. It might be on the Church property, so I never did go back or talk much about it. Rich Ream was our local friend and mentor. He moved to Jackson, Wyoming, with his family about 1964 and remained a wonderful friend until he passed away a few years ago. His son Dick Ream is a good friend and still lives in Wilson, WY."
    -Ralph Tingey, 4/18/16

    Location 

    Park where you would for Lizard Head or Altered States Gully (across from the Church Vault road) and approach as you would for the Fin. Once you leave the road and start up the trail, take an almost immediate left (look for a cairn off in the trees). This trail will parallel the church vault road and take you in a more direct path towards Intensive Care Wall and Gargoyle Wall. Pass under the Fin and up into the next gully. A large, gravelly opening means you're in the correct place, keep heading up and right.

    Getting down: At the top of the route, there is a set of chain anchors. A 70 m rope reaches the next set of anchors (for two 5.10 bolted routes), which can put you right back to your packs.

    Protection 

    A standard rack is more than enough. The initial crack can even accept a #4 or #5 in places. Plentiful use of runners will ensure the ability to run it in one pitch.


    Photos of CDFT Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The entire route from across the gully
    BETA PHOTO: The entire route from across the gully
    Rock Climbing Photo: J-Sexy showin how it's climbed
    J-Sexy showin how it's climbed
    Rock Climbing Photo: Quality moves
    Quality moves
    Rock Climbing Photo: J-Sexy on the opening moves
    J-Sexy on the opening moves
    Rock Climbing Photo: The 1st half of the climb
    BETA PHOTO: The 1st half of the climb

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