|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
Start up making a tricky move getting off the ground, then easier ground for a short ways. Head up cool slabby rock on nice features to the first anchor, mid 5.10 or so. Now rest up and scope out the roof ahead. Pull the difficult roof on hard to see holds and head up the beautiful clean face to the anchors high above.
This route has a mid anchor but I'm not sure why anyone would use it, as it isn't set up for rappel. So best to use a 70m rope or be very careful with length on a 60m.
Shares the Start with out of Sticks. Right of the all sling route Monkey Love and left of the Cave Access Route.
12 Bolts to Anchors. RB 1998, and maybe more recently. One of the crux's of this route is deciding which bolt to clip as there are up to 3 different types to choose from. Remember to look for the glue-ins with the red epoxy.
Caveman, from the cave. Photo by Kevin Stocks.