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Caterpillar Cliff
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Caterpillar Chimney T 
Caveman Cam T 
Respirator  T 
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Caveman Cam 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 4th June 2014 Jay Harrison, Tom Lane, Ben Brooke
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jun 5, 2014

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Delightful offwidth moves surmount the initial crack, reaching a stance beneath the left side of an overhanging block. Climb into the bottomless chimney along the left side of that block, and go through the overhanging blocks to a good stance. Climb stacked blocks to another stance, then follow a narrow ramp up and left along the steep face on the left. Make a committing move left to reach a right-facing, 2m tall open book. Climb it to its top, then move along the dirty slab up and left to belay.


This is the slightly-less-than-squeeze chimney 50' right and down from Caterpillar Chimney, about 60' upslope from the crag's lower corner.
Descend via rappel, being careful to choose a solid tree. Note that the shadbush used by the original ascent party is probably not a good longterm anchor.


Standard Adk Trad rack, including micro cams, nuts, and cams to 2". A 6 or 7" or greater cam/Big Bro may be helpful in reducing the runout at the start; if the chockstone is missing, such a cam would be vital.

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