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Touch of Grey T 

Caveat Emptor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Uwe Schneider & Friend, 1988/89
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: AWinters on Oct 21, 2014  with updates from ben smith

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Just past the first crux on 'Caveat Emptor'...

Description 

[Note: Name changed from "Unknown Left" when the correct name was sent by Jon Sykes June 2016. Rating left unchanged, although apparently "5.8+" was/is the "given" rating. R.Hall 6-6-16 Also, IMO, I'm not sure about the absolute ratings, but I think "Touch of Grey" is more difficult than "Caveat", like 5.9+ vs 5.8+/5.9- ]

High first bolt at 20+ feet (5.7). Easier moves lead to a good stance, and a few sequences of higher difficulty. Another thin crux before the lip will get you to the bolt anchor at your left on the slab.

Location 

First bolted line to the right of 'Crescent', staring you straight in the face as you approach the wall. Starts on a good ledge just off the ground.

Protection 

5 bolts
2-bolt anchor with chains
Tri-cam in a pocket can be used between 3rd and 4th bolts, but makes the move harder as you eliminate a really good foothold !


Photos of Caveat Emptor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fairly delicate climbing to the high first bolt  p...
Fairly delicate climbing to the high first bolt p...
Rock Climbing Photo: At P.1 2 bolt rap anchor
BETA PHOTO: At P.1 2 bolt rap anchor

Comments on Caveat Emptor Add Comment
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By AWinters
Administrator
From: NH
Oct 22, 2014

Spicy start with the high first bolt and the strangely placed third bolt, which is well out of reach from the good stance. Not recommended for a new 5.9 leader. I'm sure the first bolt's location prevents a lot of traffic, although the climbing is mellow. Considering all the other well-protected routes here though it just doesn't really seem to fit in. Highly enjoyable though!
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Mar 30, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree with that 3rd bolt clip! I bring along a stiffened quick-draw to clip it from the good stance.

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