||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
|Original: ||WI2-3 [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Rossiter|
|Season: ||cold, wet years|
|Page Views: ||1,120|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Mar 7, 2008|
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Reppelling down the Cave route.
This ice flow may have a real name. If so, please post. It seemed worth entering this as distinct sections for a few more details.
This small, ice crag is split into 2 sides. The left side is shorter and probably could accomodate up to 2 parties, but it might be tight. Overall, the ice is thinner on this side. It is never vertical, but the thinner ice may not be thick enough for stubbies up the center.
Starting up the corner right of the ice cave and moving up the thin ice seemed the most interesting (WI4-?). Bring stubbies and #1 and/or #2 Camalots for this variation. Going up the ice corner and moving right will get you into thin ice (maybe stubbies, depending on conditions). Going straight up the ice corner into the bushes leaves you jungle climbing without ice on the upper half (WI3 R). Going far left seemed to be the easiest.
The ice can be a bit funky as it can be much colder here than at the trailhead.
Move back from the ice to belay or belay inside the ice cave.
Descent: you can rappel (~50-60') off either of a two trees with slings & rap rings either right above the ice cave or on the left side of this flow or scramble off to the left.
You can actually see this from Jewell Lake, perhaps 2 o'clock when facing Black Lake. It has a slight yellow tint to the ice down the obvious drainage off Thatchtop. Richard's directions were great. You may be able to ski to within 100' of the ice. ~3 1/4 miles. ~900' vertical gain. ~1.5 h approach.
Ice screws. Maybe #1 and/or #2 Camalots to do the rightmost line.
Climbing the left side at Jewell Lake ice.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Nov 18, 2008
Early in the season, this starts out as a 10' pillar far to the left of the flow. It's not much, but the pillar is fun. Eventually, a curtain forms below the slabs to the right of the pillar and a longer pitch is possible.