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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
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Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Skid You Not T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cave Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Forrest and Don Briggs, 1966
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: James Beissel on May 26, 2008

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This is probably the easiest way to get to the Upper Terrace on Bookmark Pinnacle, but the climbing is low quality and awkward. Scramble up the descent gully on the north side of the pinnacle until roping up becomse prudent. Climb up to the top of the gully and look for two cracks splitting the north side of the Upper Terrace. The left crack is a hand crack, the right crack is an offwidth. Jam up the handcrack try to avoid the bushes and guano.

From the Upper Terrace you can either climb the summit blade as a second pitch (reccommended) or rap off from the anchor on Time Machine.

Rappelling from the chockstone in the chimney between the Upper Terrace and the summit blade is not reccomended.


This route is located high in the descent gully on the north side of Bookmark Pinnacle.

If going to the summit, descend as for East Side, otherwise it appears to be possible to rappel from the anchors of Time Machine on the east side of the Upper Terrace.


Standard rack, pro to 3"

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By Russ Keane
Sep 17, 2014

This route is very hard to find. In fact, I never found it.

We got to the lower terrace, via a shallow finger crack that can be see from the far right side of the bottom of the buttress, about 40 feet up and around the corner from the start of East Side. From the lower terrace, we could not find any 5.7 way up to the upper terrace. Therefore, we had no clue about this cave route, and I think we did a line that is not documented.

As it was, the shallow crack was a little sketchy and difficult. Run-out and quite a character builder, maybe about 5.7 (not quite 5.8 but a tough 5.7).

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