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Cerberus Gendarme
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Cave Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Dunn
Page Views: 9,808
Submitted By: EricD on Jan 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Racked up with a view. (Nikon PL510)

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Route furthest to the left on Gendarme. Starts off as an awkward face climb, protectable with the large crack. Some mantles and edges lead to a beautiful hand crack in a dihedral. Another mantle leads to chains and a cave. This route can also be top-roped by walking through the cave from behind the formation.


Big stuff (#4, #3 BD cams) to start and a couple #2s for the hand crack. Something small can be useful at the top. Chain anchors.

Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Stuff
Climbing Stuff
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Route from the base.  The route follows the l...
BETA PHOTO: Cave Route from the base. The route follows the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Offdwidthin' on the Cave Route.
Offdwidthin' on the Cave Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yoga helps.
Yoga helps.
Rock Climbing Photo: Last couple of moves before the chains. (Iphone 4)
Last couple of moves before the chains. (Iphone 4)
Rock Climbing Photo: Clark working through the hands section. (Nikon PL...
Clark working through the hands section. (Nikon PL...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clark, starting up. (Nikon PL510)
Clark, starting up. (Nikon PL510)
Rock Climbing Photo: Runout if you don't have a #4
Runout if you don't have a #4

Comments on Cave Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 11, 2006

The flakes to the right offer a nice variation (5.8ish) to the start.
By George Vigeon
From: Bend, OR
Jun 6, 2008

Kinda goofy but fun. A Camalot 4 for the first pod is optional and after that #2, 3, .75, and a .4 right before the chains. Rap the route or walk off into the cave, part of the charm of the route.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2008

I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece.
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Aug 6, 2009

this route rules. Don't overlook the second pitch. one of the only 5.8 roofs in Zion! also, an alternate start to Mean High Tide. Clint Eastwood rules.
By Jared R
Mar 1, 2010

Fun route. There are some really cool and different moves on this route that make it really fun. The jams are good and the mantels are fun. I recommend doing it.
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7++++++ but totally fun. I dropped a #5 camalot in at the bottom.
By Dann R
From: Hermosa Beach, ca
Jul 9, 2013

I agree. The first half is probably 5.6. Then, at the top half before chains, it's a possible 5.8.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If this is 5.7, Ashtar Command must be 5.6

I thought it was pretty cool... was expecting a sandbag from the guidebook description... and it definitely did not disappoint!
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this route was very underrated. Great rock quality, fun moves and position. Just don't hop on it if you're a 5.7 leader.

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