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Cave Man 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Madera 1990
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 22, 2008

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  • Description 

    Although Cave Man is a step down in quality from the routes to the right (Déjà Vu, Insane/Reality Check, and W&W Power) because of a significant patch of choss above the “cave” near the top, it is the longest pitch of the bunch and it has some great movement over airy terrain. It shouldn't be missed if you got a thing for Hellgate limestone.

    Cave Man starts maybe 15 feet left of Déjà Vu on easy ground (5.8ish) protected by a few solid cams in pods, until the first bolt is reached about 35 feet up. When we climbed it (8/5/11), two of the hangers had loose nuts which we could only hand tighten; a wrench would be useful. Rated 11d in Ruckmans' guide, but no way.


    Located left of Deja Vu and a few feet right of Klein Girls (the one bolt slab/crack).


    Eleven bolts to Desp-Arete anchors. Take 3-4 cams from .75" to 2.5", then it's draws the rest of the way. Rap into the gully between Towers 2 and 3 (a single 60m will work, barely).

    Comments on Cave Man Add Comment
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    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Jun 21, 2012
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    The comment about the bolts still applies. Most of them can be hand tightened and look like some shitty 5/16" contraptions you wouldn't want to whip on.

    I'd say getting established in the steep black rock at the 2nd bolt is solid 11+ if you're under 6' tall. The lack of feet makes the reach for the shelf damn near impossible unless you get into some serious ninja footwork. Moving from that spot is probably the crux, cryptic and pumpy - don't tunnel vision, deviating from the bolt line a bit seems mandatory. Take a breather at the cave and good luck taking a stab at the many options for the last few bolts: I found numerous opportunities to blow it on dead-end sequences.

    We started on The Shadow. Suggested gear would be BD cams from .4 to .75, largish nuts (#10 or #11 BD) and maybe a #2 camalot. There's a great spot for a .4 between the first 2 bolts, you might want to bring two if you plan on being scared by the mantel.

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