|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Madera 1990|
|Submitted By:||John Steiger on Sep 22, 2008|
|Park your car off of the main canyon road.|
|Comments on Cave Man||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
The comment about the bolts still applies. Most of them can be hand tightened and look like some shitty 5/16" contraptions you wouldn't want to whip on.
I'd say getting established in the steep black rock at the 2nd bolt is solid 11+ if you're under 6' tall. The lack of feet makes the reach for the shelf damn near impossible unless you get into some serious ninja footwork. Moving from that spot is probably the crux, cryptic and pumpy - don't tunnel vision, deviating from the bolt line a bit seems mandatory. Take a breather at the cave and good luck taking a stab at the many options for the last few bolts: I found numerous opportunities to blow it on dead-end sequences.
We started on The Shadow. Suggested gear would be BD cams from .4 to .75, largish nuts (#10 or #11 BD) and maybe a #2 camalot. There's a great spot for a .4 between the first 2 bolts, you might want to bring two if you plan on being scared by the mantel.