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Cave Exit 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Roth and Jay Eggleston (maybe?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Nov 20, 2010

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Looking up the slot.

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  • Description 

    Very much like its namesake, The Cave Exit at Lumpy Ridge, this exit from the wall may have you scratching your head for a minute and also feel like a sandbag. I found myself spinning around in full body stems trying to figure out how to gain the crack.... This steep little crack is a perfect finish after an ascent of Smoother or Crescent. Just as safe to solo as to lead, since the crux comes right away and you would be looking at the same ledge fall either way. Once you figure out how to get started, you are almost done. After the perplexing opening moves, there is plenty of good gear and the difficulty eases quickly. I would assume that this has been climbed before, since it looked fun and was the most obvious way to go....


    The start is on the south side of the summit tower of the West Ironing Board. On a blocky ledge, up and North from the end of Crescent and Green Crack West (Green Chimney), there is an obvious crack in the back of a cave-like feature.


    SR, scramble off to the NW. Maybe bring a cell phone if soloing. If you fall in that hole and break your legs, no one will ever find you....

    Photos of Cave Exit Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crack.
    Looking down the crack.

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