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Orange Peel Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T,TR 
Cave Crack T 
Clockwerk Orange S 
Crevice Cruise T,TR 
Journey To Evermore T 
Mystery and Imagination S 
Obscured by Clouds T 
Orangasm T,TR 
Orange Juice T,TR 
Orange Peel T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cave Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Robert Titley, Lois Leftwich
Page Views: 8,276
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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entrance to cave crack

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>


Despite the modest grade, Cave Crack is one of the best routes in the park. Fun climbing, great protection, and a unique location make this climb a must do. The start of Cave Crack is located above Jack Knife (see Throne Rock). While it's possible to scramble through the boulders to reach to base, climbing Jack Knife is a lot easier (and more enjoyable). From the top of Jack Knife, scramble down the back side of the summit block and scamper through a small opening under a large detached boulder. Once you stand up, you'll be in a narrow, chimney-like space with a hand crack that splits the back wall. Follow the crack for about fifty feet until you reach the top of the cave. The crack starts as a hand crack and gradually widens as you move up. At the top of the cave, step left onto the face, continue around the corner, and work up the widening crack. Above the cave, the angle eases significantly, and you can walk up the rest of the climb until you find a comfortable spot to belay. To descend, scramble down the easy slab to the anchors above Orange Peel and rap with a single rope to the base. Great climbing in the summer when the rest of E-Rock is too hot to touch.


Standard rack with cams up to a 3.5 Camalot.

Photos of Cave Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Crack
Cave Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the start of Cave Crack
Me at the start of Cave Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising out of the cave
Cruising out of the cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon stepping out of the cave onto the upper po...
Brandon stepping out of the cave onto the upper po...
Rock Climbing Photo: britt on cave crack
britt on cave crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb up into the light!
Climb up into the light!

Comments on Cave Crack Add Comment
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Oct 8, 2007

Edited: The 'Throne Rock' version of Cave Crack should be pulled. Cave Crack is more apart of the 'Peel' thank Throne rock, though the best approach is via 'Jack Knife'. It is still pretty easy to get to it scrambling up the back side.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 18, 2008

The bottom of Cave Crack is a good hand/fist size. If you want to hone your jamming skills, this is one of the cleaner cracks without a lot of crystal facets to gouge your hands.
By litld01
From: san antonio tx
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

good size pro #3 bd cam bottom then a #4 the rest of the way till till u reach top
By Adam Gurtler
From: Copperas Cove
Mar 14, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Some had warned of rope drag. I experienced none just clipping the pro all the way till the angle eases up a lot and then used a short draw. I used 1 #3 and 2 #4s, and 2 large hexcentrics(11, and 13).
Route is clean, dry and not yet as polished as the Triple Cracks.
By JohnPaulO
From: Cedar Park, TX
Jul 2, 2016

David G. and I had climbed this not too long ago and a ~90-100+ lb flake had slid down a bit above and was precariously resting on the upper sunny slab portion just waiting to kill someone. No one was under us, but just to be on the safe side instead of trundling it down, I carried it back up hill ~15' and jammed it vertically in a wide pod of the main crack. It seems jammed pretty securely now, but I wouldn't sling it as part of an anchor for instance.
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
Nov 8, 2016

So does anyone know how tall this thing is? I vastly underestimated how tall it was and didn't realize how much longer you're climbing after exiting the cave. Granted, you're basically walking by the end, but if you use up all of your big gear in the cave like I did, you can face upwards of 40' of runout...might be worth building an anchor when you get out of the cave and splitting it into 2 pitches if you don't have doubles of fist sizes. Based on where it tops out, I'D say this thing is well over 100'.
By Robert Michael
Feb 3, 2017

Regarding length, it's about 140' from the start to the big tree. I've done the route twice with a 70 and gone a good bit past the middle.

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