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Cave Complex Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 8,036 ft |
| GPS: |
39.98144, -105.30143 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 2,387 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This cluster of rocks is a bit of a maze with scrambling of some sort required to locate and do most of the climbing. Once one route is found, the rest are far easier to locate. The routes are 30' to 50' tall and Face North, South, and West, offering shade or sun at different times of day. Most are vertical or within a few degrees of it, and ascend on slopers and crimps, but there is one exception- an Offwidth rated 5.9. The rock is generally quite solid.
The name of the area is apparently derived from a fairly large protected area, which although not really a cave perhaps, certainly resembles one. "Hell's Mansion" as it was apparently once known is pretty large, and no doubt has served various uses over time. The imagination wonders to what the area route called "Your Cave or Mine" might refer to?
Save for the offwidth, most of the routes here are pretty difficult, if not utterly sandbagged, and are by no means good warmups for the average climber. Beware.
The name of the area is apparently derived from a fairly large protected area, which although not really a cave perhaps, certainly resembles one. "Hell's Mansion" as it was apparently once known is pretty large, and no doubt has served various uses over time. The imagination wonders to what the area route called "Your Cave or Mine" might refer to?
Save for the offwidth, most of the routes here are pretty difficult, if not utterly sandbagged, and are by no means good warmups for the average climber. Beware.
Getting There
From the Main trail to the Sacred Cliffs, go right (South) along the ridge line, staying West of the actual ridge when forced off of the edge by rock.
You will pass by the Name Game Area and reach the Cave Complex area. The first route seen will likely be 'The Junkyard' a 4-bolt 5.12 with all of the hangers removed, just left of a pine tree growing up the West Face of the flat red face. All Route directions will come roughly from there.
You will pass by the Name Game Area and reach the Cave Complex area. The first route seen will likely be 'The Junkyard' a 4-bolt 5.12 with all of the hangers removed, just left of a pine tree growing up the West Face of the flat red face. All Route directions will come roughly from there.
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