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High Neb Buttress
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Cave Buttress T 
High Neb Buttress T 
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Cave Buttress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fred Piggott
Page Views: 16
Submitted By: rdlennon on Nov 10, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Closeup of the route

Description 

Cave Buttress climbs the rightmost buttress of High Neb. Starting at a low blank section, trick your way up into an immense sidepull jug. Follow flakes and jugs for about 25 feet until you are under the roof. An E1 5b continues out the overhung crack straight ahead. Protect well, then do an exposed traverse out right, using a ledge for feet and patting around for invisible hands. Upon reaching a diagonal flake system, climb up to an intimidating, holdless topout.

5.6 is an unfair rating for this climb, as YDS isn't applicable in the Peak District. The climb is given S 4b in guides.

Location 

On the far right end of High Neb. Obvious roofed buttress that resembles Quietus.

Protection 

Takes good passive pro until the traverse. Here, cams would work in a vertical slot, but there are some unprotected (but easy) moves before and after. Protect the flake well before the topout mantle!


Photos of Cave Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Buttress climbs up under the roof then traver...
Cave Buttress climbs up under the roof then traver...

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