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Caught Inside S 

Caught Inside 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Stallard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


The only existing route on the Surf Tower, this route is on the way way right side, on the tower that sits on the right side of the cliff.

Climb using anything you can find for the first two bolts, and afterwards the climbing gets considerably simpler. From the top, you get an excellent view of the lower Auburn Cliffs and also the canyon beyond.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

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By tresa black
Oct 17, 2013

anybody done this route lately? I kinda gave up after nearly kicking my belayer in the head a couple times while falling at the second. Uhh....breakage?
By Rough
Oct 18, 2013

No breakage, its always been a hard / funky start slightly sandbagged. Once you know the sequence it is easier, but still funky.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 18, 2013

The start is committing with poor feet and accidentally sandbagged. Probably .11a? I think the first bolt could stand to be moved up about 2 feet, or even a bolt added between 1 & 2 (there is a decent left hand hold to clip off) to make it a safe ground up lead. It is actually cool climbing, but you gotta be solid and stick your neck out to clip bolt 2. I cannonballed my good friend Captain Choss at least 3 times trying to lead this thing.

The other option is to do some chimney junk to the right to get the second bolt clipped.
By Steve Montesanto
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Did the climb today for the first time. A little scary getting to the 2nd bolt but not too bad. The route can stand a very thorough cleaning up higher....still lots of loose stuff up there.
By Leo Ramirez
Dec 2, 2013

Climbed it on Saturday (11/30/13). The rock down at the bottom if very slippery (In fact slipped and fell just getting off the ground so heads up). I don't think this route is run-out, however, due to the slickness and insecure moves at the bottom, IMHO not a 10c (if you get on it make sure u are solid at 10c). Either way, there is still some loose stuff at the top near the roof. This route is excellent and it is now one of my favorites. I will have to go back for the red point.
By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First route at the Quarry and a confusing onsight for .10c...felt more .10d/.11a ish compared with the other routes we climbed there. Interesting/cool route though (but a wee bit chossy toward the top)
By Tatiana Cottam
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 30, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great, fun route. Chimney start on the right is easier than left side. Rocks *will* fall off on this route (had 5 people climb the route and everything from pebbles to hand-sized blocks fell off the route during every single climb).
Rock Climbing Photo: Surf Tower
Surf Tower
By Kerry Peterson
Jul 19, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Getting to the first bolt seemed trickiest for me, I'd recommend a stick clip. After the second bolt I felt the climbing eased up significantly.
By Danny Herrera
From: San Bruno, California
Nov 13, 2016

The entire boulder below the 6th bolt shifted a few inches yesterday, my partner wasn't sure if you were supposed to take the slick part to the left, or the rockier part on the right. wound up rapping off the 5th bolt.
By jmccormick
May 13, 2017

Know what your getting into, this rock is extremely loose. BE CAREFUL!!!! I tried to avoid the arête at all cost, concerned about knocking down a death block on my belayer. With that being said though, the movements throughout this climb are really fun!!

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