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Burden of Dreams T 
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Caught at the Lip 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Ted Baker on Mar 25, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up along the roof in the dark rock alcove to the left of Gidget Goes to Yosemite and continue up the thin face above.

Protection 

Bolts with optional gear


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By thesaltydalty Charest
Jul 28, 2017

Pretty horrifying and thing 5.11 slab up top after you pull the first roof. Continue past the slab to a second roof upon reaching a ledge that you mantle on. Last bolt should be rriiiiiggght over that big fat lip, so don't be afraid if you can't find once being high above of your last bolt and you don't see anything (freaked me out at first but I also thought I was climbing Gidget to the right up until the slab gave me a rude awakening.) Pull the big overhung roof move with holds that you feel as if you're taking a hot shower down at the lodge and about to put your feet up over a glass of champagne and shrimp cocktail. Climbing this lurid sport route in the shadow of El Cap gives you the opportunity to finally say you've climbed 5.11 in Yosemite without ever having to place a piece. What could be better?!

FYI enjoy the epic rock scramble up the gully to the base of the climb. Brings you just above the tree line or a pretty peaceful, epic, and uninterrupted view of the valley.

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