(9) Above the Waves Rock Climbing
Just beyond the southern edge of the Golden Valley amphitheater is a short bench of rock. Climbing up this you will reach what I am calling "Above the Waves" - the translation from Chinese. This area encompasses the Gold Wall, the Euro Wall, the Catwalk, and the Cathouse.
Atop the bench, there will be a prominent roof just above your head. Several amusingly-named moderate trad routes, such as Golden Shower, ascend half of this wall to a horizontal. If you're feeling bold, you could venture to the top of the wall, as bolted anchors (2016) exist for rappel.
Step up another short dihedral to an even higher platform to experience the European's legacy: adventures like Snake Alley. These used to be the only multi-pitch sport routes at Long Dong. Unfortunately, current bolt status is highly questionable. They can be climbed with trad gear, which is highly recommended, as they top out to some incredible views.
Beyond this, the platform descends to a slick, shellfish-encrusted catwalk that is often battered by waves and wind. When the ocean is calm, you can access a few excellent trad routes like Doublethink and the Cathouse beyond. The approach can be treacherous during high tides. If you're thinking about climbing here, first scope the waves from the ledges above.
The Cathouse is one of the least accessible and least visited areas of Long Dong. The only bolts here are titanium anchors (2016). For the adventurous traditional climber, this is where it's at. A concentration of super high-quality routes ascend the cracks that break up this multi-tiered section of cliff. This ledge is set far above the waves, and is an extraordinary setting.
If the seas are calm, you can even traverse around the base of this cliff towards the sea, and take a dip in the perfect self-contained pool.
From the southern parking lot, descend the Golden Valley trail. When you find yourself at the base, turn right and head south past the Golden Valley climbs, until you have to climb a ramp up to the overhanging start of routes like Golden Shower. Continue past Tofu Tower and multi-pitch sport routes. Beware of waves and slick rock at high tide!
Routes like Catapult begin at a flat section of rock at the base of a wide, broken 20' dihedral. This is the approach to the main area, containg routes like BA Insanity. This section is 5.2ish, but can be treacherous with a big pack and crashing waves. Be careful.
If the seas are very calm, you can approach from Backdoor as well.
Rain & Shade
All routes get wet in the rain. Snake Alley's first pitch tends to seep, as does Stalker at Cathouse, and perhaps some routes near 2nd pitch of I Love the Trad.
The cliff faces east-southeast. Lots of morning sun, dipping into the shade in the early afternoon. It can be exposed to a lot of wind and spray, as well.
Climbing Season For the Long Dong (Dragon Cave) area.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in (9) Above the Waves
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (9) Above the Waves
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (9) Above the Waves:
Snake Alley 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For (9) Above the Waves
Ocean's Eleven 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Asia
: ... : (9) Above the Waves
P1 (5.11): Start up the great features with holds you kinda have to search for. Place gear from what solid stances you can find. Make a few more tricky moves and then enjoy a short easy section to a small ledge. Make a tough pull up to the horizontal with a roof to your left. Scope holds to the left (above the roof) then pull hard through the crux - tough sequence to figure out at first. Scamper up the final few feet on incredible features to a great ledge.P2 (5.10-): Hop up to the higher ledge ...[more] Browse More Classics in International