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Routes in Stora Vaggen
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Catch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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I Andra Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prismaster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rapé T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Vad Är Otid? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Rikard Hedman, Jan Liliemark - '86 |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Lisa Montgomery on Jul 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Michael Sullivan, Gunkswest, Ian M |
Description
This is a stunning line that ascends Hallinden's biggest wall via a cobbly finger crack intrusion. Despite the crack not being splitter, the quality of the rock is quite good and protects well. Catch is sustained, unique, and an incredible rock climb.
Roughly 150 meters to the right of Prismaster the cliff is broken by a low angled ramp that leads up and right. This ramp has a fixed rope on the lower, rocky section. Climb up along the fixed rope to its top. At the top of the fixed line, go left about 20 feet. The route begins at a finger crack intrusion.
Climb the finger crack, which culminates at a stance on a sloping ledge. At his point, either go straight up on runout 7+(?) or traverse hard right, walking the ledge until it ends and then making some runout 6+ face moves to gain another ledge in a dihedral. Both variations finish by following weaknesses that angle right. Belay with gear or from a tree at the top of the cliff.
Location
Roughly 150 meters to the right of Prismaster the cliff is broken by a low angled ramp that leads up and right. This ramp has a fixed rope on the lower, rocky section. Climb up along the fixed rope to its top. At the top of the fixed line, go left about 20 feet. The route begins at a finger crack intrusion.
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