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Catch the Wave 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Aug 3, 2015

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Description 

Very technical climbing on great rock. You'll find multiple cryptic sections of long moves off small holds and really bad feet interlaced with sections of fun steep hero jug pulling and heeling. All in all, this route has excellent movement and requires some brains to decipher. The rock quality only gets better as you climb up. A committing boulder problem right before the anchors is likely steal your glory, so gather your horses when you get the chance and take no prisoners!!!

Surprisingly, this amazing route seen almost no traffic in the last 15 years. Somehow it feels like a hard slab when you are on it and you only notice how steep it really is when you lower down into the space away from the base ledge.

BELAYERS: PLEASE ALWAYS MAKE A KNOT AT THE END OF THE ROPE BEFORE LOWERING THE CLIMBER!!!!! Use a >60mts rope.

Bolts and hangers were upgraded in August 2015 by Vincent Bates, Andy Bennett and Luis Cisneros. But second pitch (or second half of first pitch) is still to be cleaned and re-bolted (soon!).

Location 

Steep wall a few feet right of Arc of a Diver.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchors. A small cam could be placed in a horizontal crack before last bolt (reachy clip on run-out)


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By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2016

This is an outstanding route, even just the first half.

We've finished updating the bolts on the first section. Thanks to the ASCA for supplying hardware! I ventured up into the second part of the climb to discover fresh rock scars and very difficult climbing (for me!). It felt like hard 13. Geologic processes will take their course... I chose not to replace the mess of old hardware on this section, mainly because I couldn't decipher which route was correct. If you're really psyched on replacing the full Catch the Wave sometime (which is reputed to be a killer line), PM me and we can rap in.

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