|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio|
|Submitted By:||Ron Olsen on Oct 10, 2002|
|Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Catch and Release||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jul 24, 2006
Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately.
Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn.
Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise.
By Jason Haas
Aug 7, 2010
|Shumin, I tried this thing today and had the same question about the roof. My initial instinct was to go above it on the right, then traverse back left but looking at the bolting job, decided that wasn't the intention and so I reversed it back to below the roof. From here, I punched it straight over the roof, with the first roof bolt a bit to my right. Felt really hard this way with awkward holds and powerful reaches/lockoffs. Not sure this was the intended path though....|
By SeanKuus Kuusinen
From: Steamboat Springs
Jun 10, 2013
|Straight through the roof is heinous and harder than most Bocan 13as. Maybe a hold broke?|
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2016
I've climbed and established a fair amount of routes with Bob. He is prolific and puts up fun routes, although he is not big on doing a lot of cleaning. I've done several of his routes and found easier sequences which were only revealed after either brushing the pitches up or feeling around in the lichen for easier sequences.
I'm not a fan of rating routes on contrived sequences when easier ones are within reach, not that I think that's Bob's intention.