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Anti-Sport, The T 
Body Count S 
Catch and Release S 
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Slayer S 
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Sport Climber's Demise, The T 
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Tunnel of Love T 

Catch and Release 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,518
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Catch and Release.

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  • Description 

    This is the rightmost route on the First Tier of Avalon. Start about 20' right of Mists of Avalon. Climb up lower-angle rock past two bolts. Clip a bolt over the roof and then make a very hard sequence of moves past the roof. Clip a bolt and make a couple of cool, hard moves up the arete. Gain a stance and easier climbing leads to the anchor. Excellent climbing on good stone.


    9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Comments on Catch and Release Add Comment
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    By reboot
    From: .
    Jul 24, 2006

    Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately.
    Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn.
    Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise.
    By Jason Haas
    Aug 7, 2010

    Shumin, I tried this thing today and had the same question about the roof. My initial instinct was to go above it on the right, then traverse back left but looking at the bolting job, decided that wasn't the intention and so I reversed it back to below the roof. From here, I punched it straight over the roof, with the first roof bolt a bit to my right. Felt really hard this way with awkward holds and powerful reaches/lockoffs. Not sure this was the intended path though....
    By SeanKuus Kuusinen
    From: Steamboat Springs
    Jun 10, 2013

    Straight through the roof is heinous and harder than most Bocan 13as. Maybe a hold broke?
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 7, 2016

    I've climbed and established a fair amount of routes with Bob. He is prolific and puts up fun routes, although he is not big on doing a lot of cleaning. I've done several of his routes and found easier sequences which were only revealed after either brushing the pitches up or feeling around in the lichen for easier sequences.

    I'm not a fan of rating routes on contrived sequences when easier ones are within reach, not that I think that's Bob's intention.

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