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Cat Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stephen Arsenault & Sam Streibert
Season: Good in cold weather
Page Views: 4,942
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Dec 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Climbing through the crux of Cat Crack

Open with restrictions - Private Property MORE INFO >>>


Start is loose blocks to a great hand / fist crack to the top. Sustained climbing to the crux near the top where the crack thins to fingers. Wonderful crack climbing- tape is reccomended.


Cat Crack is the right dominate crack going up the Amphitheatre face. Once on top rap off of trees...


Great pro to 3"; Natural anchors (trees) at the top-

Photos of Cat Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug S., totally pysched to be climbing the best j...
Doug S., totally pysched to be climbing the best j...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug leaving the looseness after the stem start on...
Doug leaving the looseness after the stem start on...
Rock Climbing Photo: This was a fun climb that I will definitely go bac...
This was a fun climb that I will definitely go bac...

Comments on Cat Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2017
By T Roper
Jan 20, 2008

I'll be bringing a #5 camelot just 'cause
By Tuxebo
From: Middletown, RI
Sep 1, 2008

This climb was very sustained and the closest thing to the Creek I have climbed in CT. Quite possibly the best crack in CT, actual jamming and not face climbing. Awesome.
By jackkelly00
From: new hampshire
May 28, 2010

Great climb and very sustained. A few seperate cruxes but hardest part is tight hands. Takes good gear. 1st pro is 15 feet off the ground (easy moves on bad rock) so be careful. Hard .10
By Kevin Johnson
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The best hand crack line in CT, with actual hand jamming through the crux of the route. This climb is a must for any CT crack lover.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011

I agree with Kevin - it's great to have a sustained crack climb in CT that requires good technique. That said, I got worked. It's got few rests.
By stephen arsenault
Apr 29, 2013

Having done the 1st ascent of this route, with Sam Streibert, I went back last year to repeat it, but it was soaking wet. We didn't have cams BITD, and it must be easier with modern gear and sticky rubber.

I plan to get back on this soon
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Apr 29, 2013

Thanks for posting Stephen! Have someone take some photos of your ascent if you can - it would be great see them on the site!!
By WiseOldMoon
From: West Hartford, Connecticut
Nov 26, 2013

On 11/25/13 the large chockstone at the begininng of the offwidth section came loose. The difficulty has increased marginally. Extra care should be taken in the rotten rock section. A large smearing left-foothold is questionable in the same section as well.
By Andy Tuller
From: New Haven, CT
Sep 27, 2014

Major rock fall today on the route.

I climbed this route last year and remember being worried about the detached block at the top. Today a friend and I went back; I convinced myself it was fine to climb again. My friend led it, and didn't feel the block move. I seconded the route and as I pulled up onto the block it moved 3-5 inches. I yarded on the rope to get to the top. Worried that the block would kill someone, we rapped back in, gave it a little push, and the whole thing came off (about the size of a refrigerator).

It was getting dark so we didn't have time to closely inspect the changes to the route. If anything it might have made the route better, exposing a new section of splitter hands where you used to layback the block.

It would probably be a good idea to rap and inspect before leading; there might still be some loose stone.

Scary moment. Glad it didn't come down while someone was leading.
By Kevin Johnson
Nov 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After the first large block was pulled off, we went to inspect the climb. After WiseOldMoon led it we pulled another loose block below the first. The route has changed slightly, but is no harder than before. Check out the changes. 10.9.14
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Oct 28, 2016

Nice hand crack - reminiscent of On The Loose at Spider's Web. It is sustained, but as soon as it starts to feel hard, a bomber hand jam appears. Definitely need to be delicate climbing through the loose flakes crammed in the lower wide section. A crow bar down low might make it safer, but harder moving up the off width.
By Sam Chiovoloni
Mar 2, 2017

Can this be top roped with a 60m rope without belaying from the top?
By Michael Huntz
Mar 8, 2017

Yes, it can be top-roped from below with a single 60 if you're careful and hang the anchors over the edge. Make sure your ends are even and knotted when rapping in...
By Kevin Johnson
May 27, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Watch out for the nesting Morning Dove near the base of the open chimney alcove. If you must do the route, the nest and chicks can easily be avoided by climbing on the left side of the alcove.

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