Casually Off-Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 100 votes
Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Robbie Williams, Craig Francois |
Page Views: | 14,908 total · 68/month |
Shared By: | jeff haskell on Apr 27, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This is a significant variation to The Casual Route (3 to 4 pitches). Climb the first 2 pitches of The Casual Route to the base of the steeper wall.
P3. Traverse left, climb up a bit, traverse left again and do an awkward mantle/pull around move to gain the belay ledge. (5.7).
P4. Begin in a wide section then continue straight up until you reach a stance just below the obvious "undercling variation" out left (5.8).
(I have only done the following variation, there is a 5.8 layback pitch that goes up and right.)
P5. Traverse left, the climbing gets a little harder and more committing as you go. Good gear, short, fun pitch (60ft.?). Belay at the base of a small crack heading up and right. (5.9).
P6. Tough move off the belay, then it eases as the route traverses up and right, meets up with the 5.8 layback pitch and eventually joins with The Casual Route. (5.7+).
You should be back on The Casual Route now somewhere around its 5th or 6th pitch (see that description for finishing options).
I've had people tell me that they prefer Casually Off better. Having done both, I would only say that they are both pretty good and were it not for the so-so ending options to these climbs I would be more enthusiastic. Mostly solid, clean rock and a short day.
P3. Traverse left, climb up a bit, traverse left again and do an awkward mantle/pull around move to gain the belay ledge. (5.7).
P4. Begin in a wide section then continue straight up until you reach a stance just below the obvious "undercling variation" out left (5.8).
(I have only done the following variation, there is a 5.8 layback pitch that goes up and right.)
P5. Traverse left, the climbing gets a little harder and more committing as you go. Good gear, short, fun pitch (60ft.?). Belay at the base of a small crack heading up and right. (5.9).
P6. Tough move off the belay, then it eases as the route traverses up and right, meets up with the 5.8 layback pitch and eventually joins with The Casual Route. (5.7+).
You should be back on The Casual Route now somewhere around its 5th or 6th pitch (see that description for finishing options).
I've had people tell me that they prefer Casually Off better. Having done both, I would only say that they are both pretty good and were it not for the so-so ending options to these climbs I would be more enthusiastic. Mostly solid, clean rock and a short day.
Location
Start in the same location as for The Casual Route. There is a half-dead tree on left side of the gully.
9 Comments