|Original: || Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
|FA: ||Aaron Parlier|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||not winter|
|Page Views: ||394|
|Submitted By: ||Aaron Parlier on Jul 6, 2009|
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Steve working "Casual Tees" (V6) on the ...
Sit start at the very bottom of the overhang in a deep, awkward, left-facing slot. make a big move up and left to a sharp, shallow crimp and match it. throw up and left again to a smaller, sharp crimp with your left hand, and then throw right with your right hand to a higher crimp (don't use the flake with the marked x, its loose).
from these crimps, make a longer dynamic move overhead to a deep, right facing slot that is just below the lip, and then move the other hand to the deep slot adjacent to it.
feel over the lip for a flat spot to mantle out on, and top out.
When looking at the front (big nose) of the boulder, the problem starts at the bottom of the overhang (sit start) and runs to the left and up the left corner, topping out on the top left of the "nose".
steve pulling on "Casual-Tees" (v5/6) on...
Steve's tendons working hard on "Casual Tees&...
lovelace wearing his Casual Tee