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Castles Burning 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, January 1988
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 4, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: "Castles Burning". From the top of Short...


This route goes up the buttress to the right of the second pitch of "Dum Roodle", wandering past five bolts and four bulging overhangs.

Climb a right curving crack, under the first bulge, pass this on it's right side and continue to a bolt, climb up to the second bulge. Move left, then over the overhang and climb past two more bolts to the right side of the third bulge. Traverse left along a dike, beneath the overhang, then move over it and up under the final overhang, passing two more bolts (5.12a). Move right until possible to head up to the top.

This is the best I can describe the route from what I have gathered from guide books and looking at it. This route is way above my ability and I don't think that I know anyone who has done it.


Standard rack, draws, slings to minimize rope drag.

Photos of Castles Burning Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Castles Burning". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Castles Burning". Photo by Blitzo.

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By Blitzo
Oct 19, 2007

It's a cool looking route and I would like to photograph someone climbing it. If anyone wants to do it for photos, contact me through this site or at

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