Castle Rocks Gardening Club
||Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Adam Floyd, Earl Mcalister, Caitlin MacMurtrie|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Fixed Hardware: ||4 Lead Bolts, 1 Anchor Bolt [details]|
|Page Views: ||421|
|Submitted By: ||JF1 on Oct 2, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Route
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low. 11a/b
Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.
You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope. Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.
It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.
This Route is on the due East face of the Comp Wall, 60 feet left of Trigger. So rather than taking the right to hike up to Handy and Mantle Dynamics, turn left for 60 feet and look for a right dihedral/pillar.
See Topo photo for more details.
Rack with bigger piece for pitch 1 (#4 camalot) and small gear for crux, small nuts key.
Pitch two three bolts to 2 .75 camalots, and one #2 to keep it a tiny bit spicy.
BETA PHOTO: Adam Growing Cracks. Pitch 1.
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 3, 2013
Very cool. Can't wait to check it out. When did you guys establish this one? Fairly recently?
From: Las Vegas
Nov 27, 2013
Added this route this summer