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Comp Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Already Been Done Crack T 
Bathing Beauty T 
Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 
Continental Crust S 
East Ridge Variation T 
Handy T,S 
Mantle Dynamics S 
Mein Komp T 

Castle Rocks Gardening Club 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Adam Floyd, Earl Mcalister, Caitlin MacMurtrie
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 1 Anchor Bolt [details]
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: JF1 on Oct 2, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Route

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low. 11a/b

Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.

You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope. Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.

It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.

Location 

This Route is on the due East face of the Comp Wall, 60 feet left of Trigger. So rather than taking the right to hike up to Handy and Mantle Dynamics, turn left for 60 feet and look for a right dihedral/pillar.
See Topo photo for more details.

Protection 

Rack with bigger piece for pitch 1 (#4 camalot) and small gear for crux, small nuts key.
Pitch two three bolts to 2 .75 camalots, and one #2 to keep it a tiny bit spicy.


Photos of Castle Rocks Gardening Club Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Growing Cracks. Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Adam Growing Cracks. Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second Pitch looking up.
Second Pitch looking up.

Comments on Castle Rocks Gardening Club Add Comment
Show which comments
By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 3, 2013

Very cool. Can't wait to check it out. When did you guys establish this one? Fairly recently?
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Nov 27, 2013

Added this route this summer