Castle Rock Rock Climbing
ATTENTION: Lots of these signs along the approach...
Castle Rock is the obvious, orange bluff looming over the town of Jasper, TN. This excellent, South-facing sandstone crag is a great Winter crag which hosts almost 100 sport and trad routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.14a, with most of the routes falling between 5.11a and 5.12d. The climbs are typically 80-120 feet and involve blocky features, sidepulls, slopers, and technical sequences on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. The harder routes on the Apes Wall tend to be a bit steeper with roof encounters towards the top.
Most of the routes were established in the 80's and 90's, but since it sits on private land, it was closed for almost a decade until a verbal agreement was reached, and a lease was sign by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition(SCC) with help from the Access Fund in 2005.
You are a guest on private land. Please take a moment to read the sign at the parking area. Some of the important rules include...
1. Obey the 20MPH speed limit on the dirt road.
2. Do not go into the rock yard across the road from the parking area.
3. Text your make and model to Ms. Phillips(the land owner) at 423-421-9760.
4. If nature calls while you are climbing, stay 200 feet from the stream that flows from Castle Rock and do not tamper with hoses that run down the hill. These supply Ms. Phillips with her water.
5. No fires at the crag.
6. No Dogs allowed.
7. Keep noise levels to a minimum.
8. Pack out trash.
9. If SCC parking area is full, do not park.
10. Never block roads or driveways.
11. No camping at Castle Rock. The nearest camping is at Foster Falls.
12. Do not stay past sunset. The gate will be locked after dark.
If you can, show your appreciation for access to this crag by volunteering for a trail day, or donate a few dollars.
For more information on Castle Rock visit The SCC website at seclimbers.org/modules.php?nam...
From Chattanooga, TN.
Take I-24 West towards Nashville for about 20 miles- passing Nickajack Lake. Just past a huge fireworks store in the median take Hwy 28 North for a few miles to the offramp for Jasper. Go left, under a bridge and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at a light by the courthouse onto Hwy 41 towards Tracy City. After 1.2 miles take a veer left, staying on Hwy 41 which takes you uphill.
A couple of miles after veering left, look for an obvious stone sign that says Greystone on the right. Follow this dirt road until you see a small parking area on the right across from a rock yard.
Weather station 12.9 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
Featured Route For Castle Rock
Psycho Spasm 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c TN
: Castle Rock
: Bonny and Clyde Wall- AKA D...
With some really cool holds, and thoughtful sequences, this slightly overhanging route slowly cranks up the difficulty, ending with a devious sloper crux on perfect rock.An easy start leads to a distinctive mushroom hold at the second bolt. A three bolt, 12- section on knobs, and edges gets you to a rest just below the crux. Find a way through the slippery, slopey features, make a tough clip, and keep it together for the easier finish on iron knobs, and better slopers. ...[more] Browse More Classics in TN
By Rockery Press
Oct 13, 2014
Castle Rock Free Day Guide
You can download a FREE Castle Rock Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-guid...
Castle Rock Free Guide includes:
Driving & Approach Beta
Rules & Recommendations
Several days of route descriptions and recommendations
From: Steele, AL
Jan 13, 2016
No dogs allowed.
SCC FB post
Castle Rock Update: Due to the sensitive nature of the drinking water source running through the crag, the lower landowners at Castle Rock have asked that we no longer allow dogs in an effort to protect their drinking water. It is very important that we get this message out to the climbing community so as not to create a further access issue.
This rule is effective IMMEDIATELY. We will be posting new signage at Castle Rock in the coming weeks. Please help us spread the word!