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Castle Rock

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Castle Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.74952, -123.51773 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grizz Burton on Jun 8, 2009
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Castle Rock's west face, obscured by trees.

Watch for raptors, if they are there, climb somewhere else

Description 

Castle Rock is an approximately 150' slab of limestone with routes on the usually sunny west face and most recently, the more shady north face. There is a mix of slab, face, crack and arete climbing. Most routes are bolted, but some are mixed and now thanks to Tom, there are a few great gear routes. All routes have two bolt anchors. The rock quality varies from mostly bullet hard on the west face to slightly lower-quality on the north face. Most of the large stuff has been cleaned but the occasional loose stone can still be encountered. Chances are if you head to Castle Rock you'll have the place to yourself.

Getting There 

Directions to the crag:
(1) Take a right on Underwood Mountain Road (just east of Burnt Ranch) if coming from Arcata on Hwy 299. Set your odometer to zero.
(2) At 4.0 miles, take a right on 5N40 Rd.
(3) At 6.2 miles (from Hwy 299) you'll pass by the Trinity Aretes.
(4) At 9.5 miles, park on your right at a small turnout/old road, that is closed by a large berm.
(5) Hike down the road for about 5 minutes. The road ends at a large cul-de-sac. Just before reaching the cul-de-sac, look for a culvert on your right. Head straight up to the ridgeline and over, eventually skirting the left side of Castle Rock to the base. About 5 minutes from leaving road to the base.

Climbing Season

For the Redwood Coast area.

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Castle Rock

Oedipus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : Redwood Coast : ... : West Face
Fun alternate start to Up On Top. Climb a frictioned runnel a few feet right of the arete. You can place a few small/medium cams 22' off the deck. When its clear you won't be getting any pro for another 15', move left to clip a bolt (clip it long), and continue up the arete. The route then merges with Up On Top. You can easily skip the rest of the bolts after the crux bolt and continue on gear. We then topped out to a gear anchor and walked off. Continuing on gear is a good option fo...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Isaac on the aesthetic arete of "Law-Son"...
Isaac on the aesthetic arete of "Law-Son"...

Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryder Dschida
From: McKinleyville, CA
May 6, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
Falcons nesting on the West Face as of 6 May 2017. Stick to climbing the North Face for the summer.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 30, 2012
base of North Face is covered in Poison Oak.

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