REI Community
Castle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Route 66 T 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
South Face Direct T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Castle Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,800'
Location: 39.9787, -105.4551 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 104,953
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Chuck Grossman doing it right in boxer shorts and ...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There 

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.4 miles from here

75 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
Standard Bulge   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   
The Citadel   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   
Jackson's Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Cussin' Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bailey's Overhang   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Curving Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Skunk Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
By Gully   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
South Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
The Black Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Coffin Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Comeback Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Final Exam   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tongo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Athlete's Feat   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Storming the Castle   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Country Club Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Englishman's Home   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Atlas Shrugged   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Gill Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the south face of the Citadel Boulder. C...

Free Range V13 8B  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
The stand start is called Cage Free, V11. On the left-center of the Citadel Boulder's south face is a good sidepull. Use this to reach left to a bad sidepull and jump to the top with the right hand.The sit start is called Free Range, V13. The sit start goes with a left hand on a pretty good pinch and a right on a variety of low holds. The low left spike is on for your feet. Bump right to an edge, cross to a pinch and traverse into Cage[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles "The Back" Grossman
Charles "The Back" Grossman
Rock Climbing Photo: Results from 5/20/2011 . Volunteers moved about 20...
Results from 5/20/2011 . Volunteers moved about 20...
Rock Climbing Photo: Keep focused.
Keep focused.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kind of stuck here, I couldn't figure out how ...
Kind of stuck here, I couldn't figure out how ...
Rock Climbing Photo: On 8th attempt I figure how to get round this part...
On 8th attempt I figure how to get round this part...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: BH bouldering at Castle Rock.
BH bouldering at Castle Rock.

Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2016
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 12, 2008
Because Castle Rock has long been popular for picnicing, I'd say the Forest Service is about fifty years overdue for the installation of outhouses and trashcans, especially compared to the facilities you find on Forest Service land near other Colorado ski areas.

Get with it, Nederland, Boulder, and Eldora Ski Area. It shouldn't just be up to the Forest Service to treat our tourists like valued customers.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 12, 2008
For some reason I seem to remember the city of Boulder has sway over Castle Rock. I remember picnicking there as a very young child with my family and the picnic tables along the creek were all maintained. And I'm certain it was Boulder that did it. In high school we'd leave party's on friday nights and drive up the canyon and bivi where the tables use to be. Great fun.
By Rogerlarock
From: Nedsterdam, Colorado
Oct 6, 2008
Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss with chains/rings, 3.5" long. Have fun and be careful out there!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2008
You could rap the route on a single rope before, just off to the side. There was a bolted rap already there.
By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2010
Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day.
By da old man
Jul 18, 2012
Found green sling, locker, and figure eight in last Sunday's rainstorm.
By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Jul 7, 2014
Best damn crag in BoCan.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Trondheim, Norway
Jul 16, 2014
I climbed West Phase this Monday (14 Jul) all the way to the top and some other routes at the west-part of the crag. I had my Norwegian driver's licence and debit card in the pocket, but now I cannot find it. If anyone finds something like that in the area, please let me know!

(the card is deactivated)

By michalm
Aug 28, 2014
Found a couple stoppers and draws on a popular route at Castle Rock the other day. If you can identify them, they are yours.
By EricR
From: Nederland
Nov 2, 2014
Found a pair of fancy car keys at the base of Country Club today. Give a shout if they are yours.
By Steven Lesiecki
Jun 26, 2015
Found some gear on a 5.6. If you can tell me what it is, I will get it back to you.
From: Superior, CO
Jul 27, 2015
Ok, the descent used to be head north to a tree with chains and webbing for a rap. Got there today, and the tree had no chains or webbing on it. We found a tree nearby that had a rap station setup, but was much more awkward. One of the climbers had a nasty tangle with a branch.

What happened to the usual rap point? Haven't seen any discussion here or alternate descent recommendation. I do see a couple rap the route comments for S face descent but would need to know how to find them from the summit.
By Sean S.
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 14, 2015
The chain seems to have been removed. A few times this season I have left some webbing and a carabiner or quicklinks on the usual rappel tree. I have also been finding rap stations on a smaller tree to skier's left that leads down a more awkward line of descent. When descending the north face, look for the larger tree to skier's right just to the right of some larger blocks.
By michalm
Jun 7, 2016
We found a psychedelic Chouinard BD chalk bag and an REI chalk bucket Saturday night. Message me or post here if either is yours.
By Rachel Harkleroad
Aug 8, 2016
I left a purple Black Diamond nut on the wall. Please contact me if you are able to retrieve it!
By seanmo63
Sep 8, 2016
One of the three truly magical walls in the Boulder area, along with Redgarden and the Bastille.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About