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Castle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Route 66 T 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
South Face Direct T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Victim of Circumstance  T 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Castle Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,800'
Location: 39.9787, -105.4551 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 122,404
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
This Afternoon

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Chuck Grossman doing it right in boxer shorts and ...

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  • Description 

    There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

    There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

    There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

    Getting There 

    About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 2.4 miles from here

    76 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
    Standard Bulge   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   
    The Citadel   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   
    Jackson's Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
    Cussin' Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Bailey's Overhang   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
    Curving Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    By Gully   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
    The Black Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    South Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
    Skunk Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Comeback Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Coffin Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Final Exam   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Tongo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Athlete's Feat   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
    Storming the Castle   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Country Club Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Englishman's Home   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Atlas Shrugged   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
    The Gill Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock

    Featured Route For Castle Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Athlete's Feat - Still hard 40 years after the FFA...

    Athlete's Feat 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
    This is one of the very best climbs around Boulder, and a great testpiece for the very solid 5.10 leader (which I, apparently, am not!). It starts just west of the SE corner of Castle rock - just left of Country Club Crack.The first pitch (right off the road) is identified by a pointy boulder with a bolt above it and a ledge above that. From there, the route moves left and follows an obvious, large, zig-zag right facing dihedral.P1: mantle onto the ledge above the pointy boulder (...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Charles "The Back" Grossman
    Charles "The Back" Grossman
    Rock Climbing Photo: Results from 5/20/2011 . Volunteers moved about 20...
    Results from 5/20/2011 . Volunteers moved about 20...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Keep focused.
    Keep focused.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kind of stuck here, I couldn't figure out how ...
    Kind of stuck here, I couldn't figure out how ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On 8th attempt I figure how to get round this part...
    On 8th attempt I figure how to get round this part...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock.
    Castle Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
    The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock.
    Castle Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: BH bouldering at Castle Rock.
    BH bouldering at Castle Rock.

    Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 10, 2017
    By Ken Trout
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 12, 2008
    Because Castle Rock has long been popular for picnicing, I'd say the Forest Service is about fifty years overdue for the installation of outhouses and trashcans, especially compared to the facilities you find on Forest Service land near other Colorado ski areas.

    Get with it, Nederland, Boulder, and Eldora Ski Area. It shouldn't just be up to the Forest Service to treat our tourists like valued customers.
    By Allen Hill
    From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
    Sep 12, 2008
    For some reason I seem to remember the city of Boulder has sway over Castle Rock. I remember picnicking there as a very young child with my family and the picnic tables along the creek were all maintained. And I'm certain it was Boulder that did it. In high school we'd leave party's on friday nights and drive up the canyon and bivi where the tables use to be. Great fun.
    By Rogerlarock
    From: Nedsterdam, Colorado
    Oct 6, 2008
    Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss with chains/rings, 3.5" long. Have fun and be careful out there!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 8, 2008
    You could rap the route on a single rope before, just off to the side. There was a bolted rap already there.
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 19, 2010
    Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day.
    By da old man
    Jul 18, 2012
    Found green sling, locker, and figure eight in last Sunday's rainstorm.
    By The Blueprint Part Dank
    From: FEMA Region VIII
    Jul 7, 2014
    Best damn crag in BoCan.
    By Kristian Starheim
    From: Trondheim, Norway
    Jul 16, 2014
    I climbed West Phase this Monday (14 Jul) all the way to the top and some other routes at the west-part of the crag. I had my Norwegian driver's licence and debit card in the pocket, but now I cannot find it. If anyone finds something like that in the area, please let me know!

    (the card is deactivated)

    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 28, 2014
    Found a couple stoppers and draws on a popular route at Castle Rock the other day. If you can identify them, they are yours.
    By EricR
    From: Nederland
    Nov 2, 2014
    Found a pair of fancy car keys at the base of Country Club today. Give a shout if they are yours.
    By Steven Lesiecki
    Jun 26, 2015
    Found some gear on a 5.6. If you can tell me what it is, I will get it back to you.
    By Wayne DENSMORE
    From: Superior, CO
    Jul 27, 2015
    Ok, the descent used to be head north to a tree with chains and webbing for a rap. Got there today, and the tree had no chains or webbing on it. We found a tree nearby that had a rap station setup, but was much more awkward. One of the climbers had a nasty tangle with a branch.

    What happened to the usual rap point? Haven't seen any discussion here or alternate descent recommendation. I do see a couple rap the route comments for S face descent but would need to know how to find them from the summit.
    By Sean S.
    From: Thornton, CO
    Sep 14, 2015
    The chain seems to have been removed. A few times this season I have left some webbing and a carabiner or quicklinks on the usual rappel tree. I have also been finding rap stations on a smaller tree to skier's left that leads down a more awkward line of descent. When descending the north face, look for the larger tree to skier's right just to the right of some larger blocks.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 7, 2016
    We found a psychedelic Chouinard BD chalk bag and an REI chalk bucket Saturday night. Message me or post here if either is yours.
    By Rachel Harkleroad
    Aug 8, 2016
    I left a purple Black Diamond nut on the wall. Please contact me if you are able to retrieve it!
    By seanmo63
    Sep 8, 2016
    One of the three truly magical walls in the Boulder area, along with Redgarden and the Bastille.
    By Drew Spoke
    Jul 21, 2017
    Got caught in the storm this afternoon and left a handful of items on West Face. Two slings and two carabiners - one set at the top, one set in the middle notch (made it into three pitches). I also left my shoes at the base and would love to have them back! Relatively new La Sportiva Finales, probably right at the base of the crag. Contact if found.
    By naomio Ochwat
    Aug 10, 2017
    Hello! I have a pair of men's Miuras that disappeared during the rain yesterday/last night! I would really like my shoes back. I left them with the other gear when we went for cover during the rain, and when I came back out of the truck, they were gone. Please please let me know if you accidentally grabbed them when packing up! I am leaving in just a few days and would really like my shoes back. Thanks!
    - Naomi

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