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Castle Rock

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Castle Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 42.12418, -113.6714 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005
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view of the park from my friends land

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


This is the largest rock formation in the park at about 300 ft tall. There are a number of good multi-pitch climbs on the rock. This is the first area to be developed at Castle Rocks, and there are about 100 routes on and around this main formation. The majority of the routes are in the 5.7-5.10 range due to the low angle nature of the rock.

The Castle Rocks Sector is not the largest area, however it is the most concentrated. Home to over 125 routes and growing, this sector is the closest and most obvious. Sport routes, trad routes, and multi-pitch routes as long as 300 feet long will be found, as are most of the classics climbs.

A majority of the lines here are sport, while others are mixed. There are a number of pure cracks of great quality, but don't expect to come here for those specifically.

Nearly all routes I can remember have chain anchors. Most routes can be rappelled with one rope, but like the City of Rocks, its best to carry a 70 meter rope, although it is not mandatory.

Approach time is about 5-10 minutes up a well-traveled trail/double track.

Getting There 

This formation is obivous from the parking lot and is about a third of a mile west of the parking lot. There are number of well marked trails to access the different areas, so please stay on the trails and buy a guidebook from one of the local shops in Almo. There are currently 2-3 different guidebooks for the area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.2 miles from here

102 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',53],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
Little Time   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   Castle Rock - South Face
Poking Holes in the Firmament   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   West Buttress - South
Big Time   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Castle Rock - South Face
Oh My Gosh   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   Castle Rock - South Face
It Takes Two   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 220'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Fruit Pie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Castle Keep   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Castle Rock - South Face
Zinger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 290'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
To Have and to Hold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wa...
Between Heaven and Earth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
13b   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Diamond in the Rough   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Castle Rock - South Face
Red Rib   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 195'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Jug-A-Lug   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Crack House
Shock and Awe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   West Buttress - South
Crimson Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Castle Rock - East Face
Twinkie   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Patina Atoll   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Honeymoon in Almo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 100'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Southern Rock Opera   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian at one of the many cruxes..

Honeymoon in Almo 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Idaho : Castle Rocks : ... : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
The route is the highest route in the gully on the west side of Castle Rock. Approach from the south side trails. This one is a real gem!!!Follow a clean plate of patina with very thin edges. Hard mantles, crimping, and high steps lead up and left to a set of anchors. One of the best routes on the west side....[more]   Browse More Classics in Idaho

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Back Yard Boulders - Just SW of Castle Rock.  July...
Back Yard Boulders - Just SW of Castle Rock. July...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock from SW corner.
Castle Rock from SW corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock and other nearby rocks from the north....
Castle Rock and other nearby rocks from the north....
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: After becoming hopelessly stuck in a marsh, we aba...
After becoming hopelessly stuck in a marsh, we aba...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock from my friends land
Castle Rock from my friends land

Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
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By Dreez
Jul 23, 2014
I have never been here and have no book...and its hard to get lost.

You can now drive up trailhead 3 minutes from the rock. AND they have installed signs to all the classic climbs on the trail. If you get lost you must of not gotten out of 1st grade.

This is fantastic. Just like climbing in Europe or Muir Valley Red River Gorge.

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