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The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South)

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The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.04562, -90.52152 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,998
Administrators: Doug Hemken, James M Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
Forecast:
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No longer private property. See below.

Description 

The Fishin' Crag is a quaint little area with a crystal clear trout stream running along side it. There are a couple dozen sport lines of varying quality, and a handful of good trad climbs. Most of the original routes were established in the mid nineties when "manufacturing" was not uncommon, though some modern routes have been added in recent years. Like many of the satellite crags this is a great place to find a project if you can, or it can be a nice getaway from the usual Wisconsin scene a few times a year.

The rock is very similar to that of the Qual Wall at Governor Dodge. Awesome in some spots and total sugar in others. As always with this type of stone, give it at least a day after rain to dry

Like the stream below it, over time The Fishin' Crag has carved out a little niche for itself in the history books of Wisconsin Climbing. The gentle vibe is only complimented by a sort of ancient temple feel that's hard to describe. Unique to say the least.

Getting There 


Castle rock south is located roughly equidistant and south of the towns of Boscobel and Muscoda on hwy. Q. It is marked in the gazetteer.


Climbing Season



Weather station 11.6 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',6],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South):
Runnin' With Bigfoot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Bigfoot Pillar
Buddha Bukstein Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   North Wall
Whitney's Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   Amphitheater Wall
Best Jams in Wisconsin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   Amphitheater Wall
An Eye For an Eye   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   North Wall
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left")   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   North Wall
Rusted Ring Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Rusty Ring Wall
Awsome Arete   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Faces
Kingdom Come   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rusty Ring Wall
Choss to Treasure   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Faces
Remedy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   North Wall
Rainday   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Faces
Arete Action   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   Rusty Ring Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South)

Featured Route For The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South)
Rock Climbing Photo: Kingdom Come

Kingdom Come 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Rusty Ring Wall
Kingdom Come is one of the more classic bits of sport climbing at the Fishin Crag. It's a little bouldery, a little techy, and a little upsetting that it isn't longer....To the right of Half Hearted. Start on the arete and work up to a jug underneath the roof. Some dynamic moves and serious cranking will take you through the crux and onto the corner/nose feature. A couple more balancy moves gaurd the anchor. Just a beautiful line with engaging moves, that will require a little more than a wi...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr Mix on Kingdom Come.
Mr Mix on Kingdom Come.
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock and the surrounding 200 acres have bel...
Castle Rock and the surrounding 200 acres have bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock Topo
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sasquatch topping out Whitney's Chimney.
Sasquatch topping out Whitney's Chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony B on Amazing Arete.
Tony B on Amazing Arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: HUGE bees nest just left of the rap chains from th...
HUGE bees nest just left of the rap chains from th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Check it out, located across Q and slightly north ...
BETA PHOTO: Check it out, located across Q and slightly north ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Park here on the north side of the bridge but adhe...
BETA PHOTO: Park here on the north side of the bridge but adhe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near Castle rock.  ...and forgives...
Near Castle rock. ...and forgives...
Rock Climbing Photo: The west face of the Fishing crag.  Nearly all the...
The west face of the Fishing crag. Nearly all the...

Comments on The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2016
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 16, 2006
Hopefully there are a few souls out there with accurate info on some of the other lines here. If, for nothing else, history's sake.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 9, 2008
For a bit more beta on how to get there, the crag is 8 miles Northeast of Fennimore, WI on HWY Q. Me and my buddy might try to make a trip out there this season to clean and climb. Any new routes will be listed.

Jeremy,

Any advice on getting to the crag without being seen? Does the farmer own the property the crag is on??
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
May 9, 2008
I spoke with the farmer my first time out there and asked him who owned the bluff. He indicated to me that it was not private land anymore, but was public/city etc property. In the past we have parked on either side of the bridge below the crag and just walked right uphill to it. Several other cars were parked in the same area (for the fishing) and no one seemed to have a problem with it. Still, is a good idea to stay as low key as possible.....
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 12, 2008
Thx for the info Travis. Looks like I'll be going sooner than later.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2008
Wow! That would be awesome if this chunk of stone was officially on public land... Anyway to verify that Travis? Any new routes?
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 15, 2008
I am still trying to get my buddy to go out there with me. He just sees it as another small sandstone crag, why drive so far he says..... I say because I want to check out all the rock in WI and there could be new lines to do. I think I will just get my fiance to go with me. She just started climbing and is just fine for a belay partner. Hopefully I will get out there soon.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 16, 2008
Hey John,

If you find yourself living in Wisconsin, I agree with you that you should find every chunk of good rock to be had, do the routes, that you can, and learn from the ones you can't.

I suppose the fishin crag is a bit remote for some. Uh, hmmmm... I remember a time in Wisconsin where if there was new climbing (or old new climbing) that we went off in search of it with a freakin fervor. Especially if we had directions to the place!

Just thought I would put that in. The fishin crag has something for everyone, unless you are just to damned strong to be bothered with such nonsense.

I do hope that all of you that find it tantalizing will make the push and get down there. You have nothing to lose but a couple of days right? Of course, fall is wonderfull.

JJ
By Tradoholic
Feb 15, 2010
This area can be a bit tricky to find. Park east of the first bridge you come to on Hwy Q (If coming from the east). Further west there is another bridge with a small parking area and a kiosk with a picture of "Castle Rock" with no rock in sight!
By Tradoholic
Jun 18, 2010
This area deserves more attention. Where the Platteville people at? It's not too far for you guys. Some more traffic would make these good lines more appealing. Even though the lines I did the other day probably get climbed only a few times a year I didn't find them too dirty and the bolts are all still looking good.

As Remo would say "GIT ON IT!"

Doesn't seem to be private land, there are zero "No Trespassing" signs and there were people walking around the thing all day long.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 18, 2010
maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sourc...

That is exactly where it is. Just off the highway to the south of the marker.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 16, 2010
This place is a gem! Easy to find and some very fun climbing. Even better than the Qual wall.
By Brian Pederson
May 19, 2011
FYI i talked to the owner today. the land belongs to the DNR. i confirmed this online its listed on the map. routes could use cleaning!
By Tradoholic
May 19, 2011
Very good! Now I wonder about all that other rock I see from the top!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 1, 2011
That's great news about the land ownership. Such a cool little place.
There is also a very long band of steep looking stone not too far to the west of here. Probably just bouldering, but maybe worth looking for.
By AnjayB
Jul 25, 2011
What ever came of this?
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Jul 29, 2011
I climbed there about a month ago no incident, my partner for the day says they have climbed there a couple of times with no incident. That doesn't mean low profile isn't the way to go. DNR doesn't like climbing. ( gibralter, rib mountain )
By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2011
For the record I saw some big pieces of sandstone slightly east of here in between Shemak and Biba Rd. g.co/maps/6ykhe

Also some SE of here off of Snowbottom Rd. g.co/maps/xs33f
I inspected this one briefly but nothing jumped out at me.

Both sites are most likely private land but it never hurts to ask!
By Dobbe
Sep 7, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Directions from Madison to Castle Rock South
Directions from Madison to Castle Rock South
By pdk
From: Janesville, WI
Oct 3, 2014
BE ON THE LOOKOUT: WE CONFRONTED 5 MALES VANDALIZING THE ROCK ON 09/28/14. They kicked off a large flake at very north approach. Large boulders were also dismantled near the rusted bolt wall and right of this wall. They drove away in vehicle with plate WI 663 RXX. We reported them to Grant Co. Sheriff Dept. and the DNR. I will post some pics. SO SAD AND IRRATE. PLEASE HELP US CATCH THESE VANDALS.
By pdk
From: Janesville, WI
Oct 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Recently posted vandalism
Recently posted vandalism

Trees broken off from large rocks broken away near north entrance to crag from bridge trail. Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO!
By pdk
From: Janesville, WI
Oct 5, 2014
Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! Large flake broken from first approach left of route Eye for an Eye.
Rock Climbing Photo: More vandalism
More vandalism
By pdk
From: Janesville, WI
Oct 5, 2014
Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! Large boulders dismantled near rusty bolts wall and south. Note damaged trees.
Rock Climbing Photo: More vandalism 2
More vandalism 2
By pdk
From: Janesville, WI
Oct 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: So sad
So sad

Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! More tree and rock damage near rusty bolts wall.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Oct 11, 2015
I found a pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag at the base of the rusty ring wall. Let me know if you're missing these items and I can return them to you.

Josh
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Nov 3, 2015
I haven't been here yet, how is the rock quality? Similar to Necedah? Wondering if its worth bringing the trad rack.
By jon jugenheimer
Administrator
From: Madison
Nov 3, 2015
Joel, the rock isn't quite as good as Necedah, but bring your rack! There is a really sweet 5.9 crack there that you have to get on! Its "the best jams in Wisconsin"
By Fuzzy Climber
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 2, 2016
Anyone climbing here next weekend? I live in Tucson, AZ but will be in Boscobel April 6th-12th. I can pack my shoes and harness.
By Tradoholic
Apr 3, 2016
Fuzzy. Try the forums.

Just noticed the vandalism. Any routes affected?
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 4, 2016
Nick, I think pdk documented it pretty thoroughly.
By Tradoholic
Apr 4, 2016
Sounds like damage was "near" routes but not actually to them. Yes?
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 4, 2016
I walked through once after the vandalism, and that's what it looked like to me, Nick. But I don't know this rock very well, myself.

I also tried to contact the regional DNR office about this, but got zero response.
By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
Aug 4, 2016
Does anyone know anything about "Jerome's Campsite @ Castle Rock" that shows up on Google Maps right by the bridge?
By Tradoholic
Aug 4, 2016
That's just an empty field Bro. Looking for a place to crash?