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Castle Rock - South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bellissimo S 
Big Time S 
Big Time Direct S 
Carpe Spot S 
Castle Keep S 
Corrin's Crack T 
Diamond in the Rough T 
High Road T,S 
High Times  T 
Imagine Wagons T 
Little Time S 
No Pack Crack T 
Oh My Gosh S 
Pollo Negro S 
Poster Chicken T 
Tiny Time T 
Wedding Gift T 

Castle Rock - South Face Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on May 6, 2006
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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Arguable the most popular area at Castle Rocks, the South Face is the place to land when visiting for the first time. Whether by choice or by accident, you will climb here. Popular due to access, the South Face is one of the first and most prominent crags at the Castle. Climbing here covers all bases. There are pure cracks, bolted routes, mixed routes and mult-pitch. Probably the largest feature at Castle Rocks, routes here reach 300 feet in length. Get here early, lines are not uncommon.

Getting There 

Follow the main road past the Ranger Station into Castle Rocks. Drive to the farthest parking lot and walk left/south towards to the base of this obvious dome.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.2 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock - South Face:
Little Time   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   
Big Time   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Oh My Gosh   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   
Castle Keep   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Diamond in the Rough   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pollo Negro   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
High Road   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock - South Face

Featured Route For Castle Rock - South Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Kim Miller gettin' the rope up there on the second...

Oh My Gosh 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Castle Rock - South Face
Another slabby route in between Big Time and Little Time. Still a bit grainy, 2nd pitch is thoughtful friction, more so that it's neighbors. Pitch 1: 90 ft angling slightly left to chain belay in a depressionPitch 2: Angle sharply left to gain a slight rib which is followed up to the next belayIt may be possible to join the third pitch of Big Time with a 15 or 20 foot runout.I climbed just one full rope length then rapped (one 60M rope, two raps)...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Castle Rock - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Face from the Southwest.
South Face from the Southwest.
Rock Climbing Photo: South side of Castle Rock
South side of Castle Rock

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