Castle Peak Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The North Face of Castle Peak. The leftmost three ...
Castle Peak is a remote granite mountain sitting at the intersection of Whatcom County, Okanogan County, and the US/Canada border. It is seldom climbed, and seldom seen (from up close) yet holds fantastic rock and scenery, with an approach that isn't too long by local standards. Additionally, the glacier at the foot of the North Face is mellow enough to allow for easy travel. The alpine meadows at the foot of the north face are sublime.
The Kearney route, on the East Buttress of the South Face, is included in his Selected Climbs book, but has likely only seen one repeat. It is meant to be a good climb.
The Colorado Route (Glick/Pennings/Medara) has likely not been repeated. It looks classic.
The Herrington/Hirst route was attempted by at least one party before being completed in 2008. It may share an initial pitch or 2 with the Colorado Route.
The Berdinka/Layton Route (Sod-On-Me) goes from great climbing to a mossy/dirty, lower-angled feature. It has seen at least one repeat.
Approach is best done via Canada's Hwy3 East of Hope, BC - Manning Provincial Park (visitor center here) - Hike to the Frosty Mountain lookout (good marked trail) - Head south cross country, over international border, obvious terrain to North Face.
Climbing Season For the North Cascades area.
Weather station 19.8 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Castle Peak
North Face left buttress 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Washington
: Northwest Region
: ... : Castle Peak
This route was climbed in the summer of 2008 on an attempt to repeat the 1993 Colorado route.The 1993 route moves out to the right onto the buttress crest. We were unable to figure out where the climb moved right. In any case, the route done was enjoyable and on excellent stone.Cross the Glacier, should be fairly low-angle. Moat may be an issue. All lengths approximate.P1. Begin in the blocky line of face holds just left of the gulley/chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Toward the end ther...[more] Browse More Classics in Washington