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Sex Cave
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.50 Cal S 
38 Special S 
Body Wax S 
Castle in the Sky S 
Donkey Lady S 
Elephant Man S 
Head S 
Liposuction S 
Lucky Strikes S 
Roman Orgy S 
Spider Grind S 
Zen and The Art of Stick Clipping S 

Castle in the Sky 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Matt Twyman
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: Ferisimo on Feb 10, 2016

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Climbing pitch two, looking back at the belay. MIN...


Castle in the Sky is a two pitch route that traverses the Sex Cave headwall. The traversing nature of the route gives it a unique feel; like free climbing a beautiful via ferrata course. The route offers the classic low roof of Liposuction, delicate pocket traversing, some 3D movement entering/exiting the massive white stalactite (belay), a rewarding traverse on tufas across the wave-shaped headwall, ending with a final well-disguised crux right when you're looking for the chains. Big thanks to Matt Twyman for putting this up - now those striking tufas can be enjoyed! Go climb it.

Pitch 1: 5.11+, 11 bolts. Start on Liposuction. Put a long sling on Lipo's 4th bolt (or skip) and then traverse left across Donkey Lady's 5th and Elephant Man's 6th bolt. The first set of anchors are under the small oak tree, on the large white stalactite. Stay low after traversing over Elephant Man; it's possible to stay high on larger/dirty holds but you miss the movement! You'll know if you're too high as you'll find yourself clipping at your knees rather than at head heighth.

Pitch 2: 5.12b, 9 bolts. Continue climbing left over the lip of Sex Cave, traversing across the wave-shaped headwall, crossing over 38 Special. Keep traversing left to end at a second set of anchors near the Sex Canyon routes.

Photos of Castle in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: B on the yummy tufa traverse! Nomnomnom
B on the yummy tufa traverse! Nomnomnom

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