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Castle Black 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin Piarulli
New Route: Yes
Season: July-October
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Kevin MP on Jul 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Castle black

Description 

Head up the easy finger crack to the ledge and lay siege to the steep corner above. Cool stem moves on good rock lead to a powerful crux requiring a commiting reach. It is possible to tap the ledge falling from the crux, so place your gear well and have an attentive belay. From there gallavant up the crack to a final mantle onto the ledge.

This section of the cliff seeps heavily and is the last area to dry in the summer. As of July 4 there was only one slimy hold but not really an issue. As with most routes here it's a good idea to bring a brush along, especially if you might be the first one up the route for the season.

Location 

Left side of the cliff at the lowest point. R facing corner in the impossibly black rock.

Protection 

Cams to #2, a few extra finger size pieces. Rap rings at the anchor.


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