REI Community
Negativity Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cast in Stone S 
Cast of Characters S 
Cast Off S 
Little Buddy S 

Cast Off 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson
Page Views: 644
Submitted By: Brad J on Aug 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

No overnight camping on PG&E property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crux low. Climb still a bit dirty.

Location 

Third climb from left on Negativity wall.

Protection 

All bolts


Comments on Cast Off Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Price
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I know nobody brings cams to a sport cliff but bolts next to a crack? and what does pg13 mean, under 13 beware? things sewn up, skippin bolts.
By Brad J
Feb 8, 2015

Bill
Thx for the feedback. I fixed the PG13 rating. Don't know how that happened:-)
As for bolting cracks... When John and I first started to develop / redevelop the area there were a couple of trad climbs Mike Carville told us about. We called the FA to discuss them and made sure we didn't impact them in any way. (One of those climbs is on the right side of Dollar Store. It's a 5.9 with no anchor at the top, although you can rap down one of our climbs or do the walk down to the right but it kind of sucks). While there are a few trad climbs at the Emeralds it is truly a sport area. The consensus decision was to develop it as such.

The original idea was the Negativity slabs were nothing more than quick access to the cave. We really had no idea that the slabs would develop a following. In retrospect, we should have considered the slab as a destination rather than an expressway to the fun stuff.

We could remove the bolts if there is enough demand but remember: Almost everyone that goes up into the cave climbs the two easy climbs and none of them bring a rack.

We are going up in the spring to try and develop more climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range as this seems to be the most popular range at the Emeralds. Got our eyes on several new walls.........

Hope to see you up there Bill

Brad
By Bill Price
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hey, I appreciate all the work you guys are doing putting up new routes and that was just the old tradster in me talking. I'm now a rap bolting, chipping, glueing, hang dogging old man. (chip & glue only on choss that nobody cares about). Keep up the good work and hope we could climb together some day. There is a lot more rock to develop up there for sure.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 21, 2015

There are no rings on the anchor bolts. The last person needs to lead easy rock up and left onto the big ledge to good bolts and rings on the left.
By mike carville
Dec 16, 2016

oh bill, say it ain't so!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About