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Cast In The Shadows  T 

Cast In The Shadows  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Brent Kertzman and Mike Miller 1992 Ground Up
Season: any
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Mike Housiaux on Jun 3, 2014

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Description 

Starts on the SE corner of the formation. Work the short crack flake to its end. Work small awkward often sharp crystals. To a high first bolt. Going from the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt felt the crux. Use good smearing on tiny holds and go for the small run out. Mantle onto the ledge and take a good rest. Clip the 3rd bolt and make some delicate moves to the summit.

Location 

SE Arete

Protection 

3 bolts on route. 2 bolt chain anchor. Guidebooks say 4...?


Comments on Cast In The Shadows Add Comment
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By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jun 8, 2014

FA: Brent Kertzman & Mike Miller, 1992, Ground Up
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Jun 11, 2014

Been some action on this "lost" route. Lost as in not much action the past couple of years. Seems to have 3 bolts not sure on the fourth? Looks super easy turns out this one makes ya think. I'd say coming from harbinger to this route the people I was climbing with thought 5.10 B/C for it. I feel it is not 5.10-. IMHO. Nice work BK figured it was yours but wasn't sure. If I'm not mistaken didn't you say the 5.11 had been removed?
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jun 12, 2014

Larry Shaffer felt entitled to remove the fourth bolt for some reason. There were three bolts close together protecting the crux. If memory serves me correct those bolts are of the self drive variety and one of the three didn't inspire confidence to me at the time. Likewise the funky thin slabby nature of the climbing and moving into the unknown also influenced with my choice for the bolt placements. Maybe I was just in over my head that day. Drilling on the lead is for a different breed.

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