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Coup D'etat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Bulge T 
Cassi's Nightmare T 
Coup D'etat T 
Fat City T 
Flat Bottom Girls T 
Little Sheba S 
Ode to a Portly Man T,S 
Paternal Instinct T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Reptilian T 
Wasp, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cassi's Nightmare 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 261
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on May 28, 2007

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Description 

Climb 15 feet up to the overhanging hand and fist crack. Follow it up and over the bulge, ending up on a slab. Climb the chickenhead covered slab up and right to the overhanging handcrack. Pull this roof and anchor on the tree directly above.

There are two other options for topping out to keep this climb at 5.9+. At the slab, either go around the roof to the right(5.8) or traverse left to top out(5.6). These alternatives avoid some great moves, though.

Location 

Located near the right end of the West Main Bluff, this is the first line right around the corner from Fat City. It is a large overhanging offwidth that slants right.

Protection 

Standard rack plus offwidth gear. No small stuff necessary. Anchor at trees. Best descent is to top out and hike to the Ramp descent near the Chickenhead Wall.


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