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Casper T 
Sisyphus T 

Casper 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, Gary Garbert, 1965
Season: Spring, winter, fall
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: sean peters on Jan 14, 2015

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Looking around corner of the first pitch on Casper...

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>


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By sean peters
Jan 14, 2015

The first pitch of Casper begins on the east side of the formation. One must mount a loose boulder to locate a somewhat hidden crack just left of boulder. The start of this pitch is loose, the crack is alright (5.7) and the traverse out of the crack is fairly loose as well.

Tippy-toe/traverse over more loose stone (north) and continue around corner (west) to a nice ledge for the beginning of pitch 2. We found one piton at the start of this pitch--the same type we found on Sisyphus. Pitch 2 is difficult and scary. Very loose start, up very loose, crumbly crack and onto easier terrain to the summit.

No anchors, slings, were discovered on the summit (2015). Rap off nut/bolt. One rope gets you down.

Rappel back to start of pitch 2, throw ropes around to the south and finish off rappel. Down climb back north to packs. Probably a better and safer way off but it worked alright for us. Watch for lots of falling rock.

Both Sisyphus and Casper felt like that had not been climbed for decades. I would say the rock on both of these formations rate as some of the worst in the Superstitions but also feel the most adventurous....except for the routes on the east side of Weavers Needle.

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