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Casket Quarry ICE

Select Route:
A) The Alpine Route 
B) Crescent S 
C) Turkey Chute S 
D) Bare Hug S 
DD) Open Casket S 
E) Deer Bait S 
EE) Cat Bait S 
F) Cat's Paw S 
G) Crocodile Tiers S 
H) Strike Three S,TR 
I) The Chimney S,TR 
J) Shaken, Not Stirred S 
K) Extra Dry Vermouth S 
L) Martini S 
M) Ledag'er TR 
N) -unfinished- S 
NN) Off-road S 
O) Reefer Madness S 
P) Blind Faith S 
Q) Big Blue - ICE 
R) Big Blue: LEFT Mixed Finish S 
S) Big Blue: CENTER Mixed Finish S 
T) Big Blue: RIGHT Mixed Finish S 
U) Turning To Stone S 
UU) Drop Off S 
V) Thin and Bear It S,TR 
W) Off-Ramp S 
X) The Ramp 

Casket Quarry ICE Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 46.75229, -92.1716 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,841
Administrators: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nodin on Dec 5, 2006  with updates from Lucas Kramer 1 and 1 more
Forecast:
Today

80° | 67°
Saturday

78° | 61°
Sunday

73° | 57°
Monday

64° | 54°
Tuesday

59° | 47°
Wednesday

58° | 44°
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Description 

Casket Quarry has been frequented by ice climbers for several decades. There was some rock development here in the 80’s (4-5 routes) but the incredibly chossy exfoliating rock is less than inspiring so it was pretty much abandoned.

With the rising popularity of Ice and Mixed climbing, more folks started using it as a training ground for other arenas. Top-roping on loose blocks/flakes and vertical kitty litter is great for testing the limits of adhesion and practicing your “I’m-light-as-a-feather” mantra…

Then the crowbars and drills showed up. Mike Dahlberg pioneered the use of RB’s or removable bolts to lead a couple mixed routes but since nobody else owned the uber specialized hardware, they never got repeated. In 2005 Mike and James Loveridge started putting some serious cleaning time in. Countless days were spent hanging from a rope with all sorts of home made “technical trundling” equipment dangling off harnesses. Eventually, if all went well, a route would emerge from underneath the choss.

Now the crag has close to 20 Ice and mixed routes all of which can be lead ground-up with good protection. If this crag were in Colorado there would be 50+ climbers there every weekend! Luckily it’s in Northern Minnesota…. Come on up here, tie in and start getting’ on the sharp end! Oh, buy Mike D and J.Lo some beers for all the money they’'ve spent on bolts…

Please Note: If you plan on TR’ing a route off the anchors, PLEASE use your own biners/draws to avoid wearing out the expensive hardware prematurely. If there are biners or other clip in replaceable hardware on the anchor, feel free to use them. If they are looking worn and sketchy, just replace with biners of your own. Thanks in advance for being a responsible and thoughtful crag steward!

In 2015 Casket Quarry was officially established as "Quarry Park", Duluth's newest city park. The Duluth Climbers Coalition will be working to manage some aspects of the park including conditions updates which can be found on the Quarry Park Facebook site. Please email info@duluthclimbers.org or check out the website, duluthclimbers.org with any questions.

Getting There 

From the south: As you begin to descend the I-35 northbound hill into Duluth, take the Cody St exit. Turn left at 59th Ave W. At the stop sign (Highland St) continue straight, crossing the railroad tracks. Park in the lot on the right. The trail to the quarry is off the back corner of the lot.

From Duluth (or other locations north):
Take the Central Ave exit from I-35 southbound. Continue through several stoplights to a stop sign at Cody St. Turn left on Cody. After about 8 blocks, turn right onto 59th Ave W. At the stop sign (Highland St) continue straight, crossing the railroad tracks. Park in the lot on the right. The trail to the quarry is off the back corner of the lot.

Parking is NO LONGER ALLOWED at the 57th Ave W access point.

Caution: 

It is potentially highly dangerous to rock climb these bolted routes in the summer. Even though the routes themselves are cleaned of large debris (mostly...) there are many hanging blocks on either side of the existing lines that could calve off at any time. Avoid climbing the Mixed routes at Casket unless it’s been below freezing for a week or so.

Use caution when parking in the 59th Ave W city lot. A spring on the high side of the lot causes a large section of the parking lot to completely ice over. Take note of where the ice has formed and park elsewhere in the lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Casket Quarry ICE

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Casket Quarry ICE:
L) Martini   M6-7     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 80'   
H) Strike Three   M6     Sport, TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 75'   
M) Ledag'er   M8     TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 80'   
E) Deer Bait   M7-     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 65'   
I) The Chimney   WI5 M5     Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   
Q) Big Blue - ICE   WI4-5     Ice, 1 pitch, 70'   
J) Shaken, Not Stirred   M8+     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 85'   
V) Thin and Bear It   M6     Sport, TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 55'   
B) Crescent   M8-     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 55'   
K) Extra Dry Vermouth   M9-     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 85'   
X) The Ramp   WI3     Ice, 100'   
D) Bare Hug   M8+     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 65'   
A) The Alpine Route   WI3     Ice, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Casket Quarry ICE

Featured Route For Casket Quarry ICE
Rock Climbing Photo: Deer Bait (Feb '08)

E) Deer Bait M7-  Minnesota : Duluth Area (Rock and Ice) : Casket Quarry ICE
Look for a super chossy ramp/pedestal at the base of a shallow dihedral. There is a big flake that you can see at the top that you folow up and right for about 10 feet untill you reach the ice....[more]   Browse More Classics in Minnesota

Photos of Casket Quarry ICE Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Quarry conditions as of January 2, 2015
BETA PHOTO: Quarry conditions as of January 2, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Reflections Spring 2012
Reflections Spring 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Waterfall Spring 2012
Waterfall Spring 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: hawk
hawk
Rock Climbing Photo: rock bridge
rock bridge
Rock Climbing Photo: waterfall
waterfall
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice starting to form.  Picture taken at about 3:00...
BETA PHOTO: Ice starting to form. Picture taken at about 3:00...
Rock Climbing Photo: some mixed routes at the Quarry
some mixed routes at the Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: not sure the name of this sweet route
BETA PHOTO: not sure the name of this sweet route
Rock Climbing Photo: the Quarry
BETA PHOTO: the Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Off Ramp left, the Ramp right. Jan. 5 2010.
BETA PHOTO: Off Ramp left, the Ramp right. Jan. 5 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: Conditions as of Dec. 15th, 2009. The pillar has g...
BETA PHOTO: Conditions as of Dec. 15th, 2009. The pillar has g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crag Overview #2
BETA PHOTO: Crag Overview #2
Rock Climbing Photo: Crag Overview #1 - Crescent to Martini (Feb '08)
BETA PHOTO: Crag Overview #1 - Crescent to Martini (Feb '08)
Rock Climbing Photo: Crag Overview #1 Crescent to Martini
BETA PHOTO: Crag Overview #1 Crescent to Martini

Comments on Casket Quarry ICE Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Aug 21, 2009
How's this crag around thanksgiving as far as ice goes? Would most routes be exclusively drytooling or would they be mixed?
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Sep 19, 2009
Good question...
Answer?
By Frank Furter
Oct 30, 2009
It will all depend on when the temps drop. Right now we have been getting alot of rain so the streams are flowing and the groundwater level is high. So a couple weeks of below freezing temperatures leading into Thanksgiving and we should have some ice forming up. But a safe bet would be mostly drytooling.
By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Jul 5, 2010
Any info on the routes as sport leads?
By Lucas Kramer
From: Duluth, MN
Nov 30, 2011
Update to parking at Casket Quarry:

Please no longer park at the old 57th Ave West entry. There is a much safer and better gravel parking lot just opposite the old entry located off 59th Ave West. This lot is adjacent to the Loll Designs HQ building.

From Duluth, continue approximately 2 blocks past Medina on 8th to Central, turn right then immediately left onto Highland. Turn right on 59th Ave W, park in the lot on the right.

From the cities, take the Central Ave exit, turn left onto Highland, right on 59th Ave W and park.

The walk in is shorter, flatter, you will not be towed (no train tracks) and we will not block any driveways.

If you have questions, please contact me. Lucas Kramer 218-726-6257
By Mark Mahaney
From: St. Paul, Minnesota
Feb 13, 2012
Be much appreciated if anyone in the Casket area could post a Condition Report, I would surely show my gratitude with a case of beer, belay, etc. Thanks MP!
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Feb 13, 2012
Climbed there yesterday. Dry as a bone. But still a lot of fun. I'd avoid climbing Martini. The Martini glass-shaped flake sounds and feels like it could go.
By Mark Mahaney
From: St. Paul, Minnesota
Feb 14, 2012
Thank you Kris! Much appreciation.

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