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King Otto's Castle
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 
Bridge, The T 
Casino Royale T 
Date Queen T 
Don Genaro Crack T 
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 
Leaving Las Vegas T 
Panama Red TR 
Phelp's Chevrolet T 
Plain But Good Hearted T 
Shaken Not Stirred T 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 
Sweat Band T 
Sweat Pants T 
Tarawassie Wiggle T 
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 

Casino Royale 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, Feb 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,418
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Casino Royale & Sweat Band


Begin by climbing Sweat Band to the second bolt. When your feet are just above the second bolt, traverse straight left past a bolt (10+) over to the seam on Panama Red. Make a tough move to gain the fourth bolt (11-) then follow the seam (10+) up to easier face climbing past 2 more bolts to the top.


Although this link-up only involves about 15 feet of new climbing, the entire pitch has a lot of great face climbing. It's a tough lead, but easy to TR off the Sweat Band anchor. Best conditions are the coldest days, as the sun bakes this south-facing cliff.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 80 ft.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 1, 2013
By Bob Gaines
Feb 7, 2008

The third bolt is a tough clip, so be ready. I clipped it with my left hand.

While there are probably no moves harder than 10+, the traverse is sustained, and the move to the fourth bolt is tricky, so 11a overall.

One of my favorite face pitches in Indian Cove Campground.
By The Duke
Jun 2, 2008

OMG - squeezius maximus!!Might as well rap bolt Panama Red while your at it.
By Bob Gaines
Jun 3, 2008

Hey Duke: you can call it a squeeze job, but essentially its a traverse between two existing routes. You clip the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverse almost straight left over to Panama Red. The last three bolts are on Panama Red in the same spots as the chopped bolts. (It had been previously bolted, then chopped, many years ago) I did my best to patch the ugly scars and craters that existed from the result of whomever did the chopping- it wasn't pretty.

Climb the route before you dis it! Dave Mayville did the second ascent and he thought it was great.
By C Miller
From: CA
Jun 3, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

There should have been one bolt already in place on Panama Red (near the top) which I placed about 1998 or so.
By Bob Gaines
Jun 3, 2008

You're right Chris, there was one bolt still there, I believe it was the second to the last bolt (which would be the fifth bolt on the route) which was good to go.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 12, 2008

Poor route. Squeezed in and a contrived bolt line. Clips are hard because the good holds are on existing and adjacent routes.
By Bob Gaines
Dec 14, 2008

The only tough clip is the third bolt. Besides the traverse, all of the climbing (and bolt clips) are on previously existing routes: Panama Red (which gets 3.7 stars on mountain project) and Sweat Band (2.5 stars). The traverse consists of an incredible series of edges, on some nice patina, across one of the steepest sections of King Otto's south face. I'll admit it's contrived, but it's also very fun.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 15, 2008

Sorry Bob. I think you really forced one here. No way no how is this a 3 star route. 1 max.
By Dave M Snyder
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route Bob. I've done it a few times. Really good movement. Not a squeeze job at all. Like you added a bolt to join 2 routes...and the climbing between them is good.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 3, 2010

So the route is a one bolt link up? Maybe that was my problem, we were trying to stay independent of Panama Red I think... Agreed that the 12' of new climbing was on good rock.
By Choncho
Nov 22, 2010

Very nice pitch. No giveaway either.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 28, 2010

Did this one again the other day to see what you guys saw...

The traverse isn't 30', more like 15, on nice patina edges after doing 10 feet of sweat band, then a finish on panama red. The traverse is indeed the best climbing on the route, but that 15 new feet doesn't make it the best route in the CG by a long shot in my opinion.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 28, 2010

Not sure why this needed a new bolt, but the 15' traverse is indeed the best climbing on it. Traverse itself is about 5.10-, once you get to the white rounded edge/seam at the end of the traverse (i.e. Panama Red) the rock quality goes a tad funky and the crux shows up. Cold conditions will help with the rounded sidepull(s) on sloping grain where it joins P.R. Not even close to the "best route in the CG", not even the best route on this block IMO...but tastes differ I suppose. This one tastes like a contrived link up that avoids the best parts of both routes it links. YMMV.
By Adam Stackhouse
Dec 4, 2010


Bob edited the route info and subsequent comment to reflect the truer nature of the traverse, from 30ft to 15ft.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Be careful clipping the traverse bolt as a fall will likely land you on the slab below; clipping the 3rd bolt on Sweat Band with a long sling, downclimbing and then doing the traverse is more involved but safer.

Good rock and some fun moves on the traverse but it really should have been left as a toprope. One star out of five.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 30, 2013

Don't think I've ever seen a route get the full spectrum from four stars to a "bomb" rating.

I guess either way you look at it, this route is "da bomb!"

Still one of my favorites in the Indian Cove Campground- fun to toprope, but a demanding lead.

Those chains at the top anchor are getting very rusty....time to fix up that anchor.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jul 18, 2013

KP and I upgraded that anchor last night Bob.
By Bob Gaines
Jul 19, 2013

Good work Shelby and KP!!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 1, 2013

"Da Bomb" That is really funny, Bob. Nice use of an old double entendre.

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