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YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,587
Submitted By: BirminghamBen on Jun 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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You can double protect crux with .75 BD cam and #1...


Easy climbing leads to a nice easy roof.

Climb the crack to the base of the roof above. Load up the horizontals with gear and long slings. Work those feet up as you hand-over-hand out the large horizontal flake. Once fully extended, have faith and reach around to huge, hidden jugs. Cut loose and pull up onto the easy face above the roof. Climb this to the top.


Long broken crack to a roof in a highly impacted area. Maybe 200' right of the 'descent gully'. Just left of the awesome face climb "Night of the Climbing Dead".


Stoppers, cams to #2 or so...there's good gear all over this route.

Photos of Cashmere Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof on Cashmere
Pulling the roof on Cashmere
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof on Cashmere
Pulling the roof on Cashmere
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: PW leading Cashmere 5.7
PW leading Cashmere 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: Cashmere top.
BETA PHOTO: Cashmere top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cashmere roof.
BETA PHOTO: Cashmere roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: That roof is a blast!
That roof is a blast!

Comments on Cashmere Add Comment
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you're planning to go to the Gunks, this is good prep for roof moves like the one on Shockley's Ceiling. I consider Cashmere slightly sandbagged at 5.7. I wasn't ready to lead it last time I was there, but I will lead it next time.
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From: Alabama
Oct 27, 2008

The lower half can be protected with passive pro. But, use cams right at and in the roof. Nice intro to 5.7 trad.
By Cres Simpson
From: Cambridge, MA
May 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bolted anchors now at the top.
By MicahStovall
From: Birmingham, Al
Oct 4, 2016

My partner lead this route and now there is a fixed (stuck) #9 stopper right above the roof. Protection should be pretty strait forward on this route and now you can just clip into this nut instead of scrambling for a piece once you pull over the roof.

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