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Casey's Route 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 2,493
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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My favorite thing about Casey's Route is the beaut...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar." You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climbing the leftmost of these with the occasional aid of the right one is probably 5.10. Climbing it with the 'eliminate' of the crack on the right might provide 5.10+ challenge. The route used to finish at a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor, but that was updated by the addition of a bolt.


Various, thin hands to hands.

Photos of Casey's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Casey's Route.
Climber on Casey's Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole leading the route between "anunnaki&qu...
nicole leading the route between "anunnaki&qu...

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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2005

new bolt(3/8" SS triplex)added to existing single bolt anchor, and fixed nuts removed.

Fun route. Stiff start, but good hands higher, and bomber finger locks on the steep part. The right crack helps with the feet (ie. stemming).
By m-earle
From: USA
Feb 21, 2007

This is a fun route, i give it 3 stars. a good warm up if the popular routes are occupied
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 17, 2008

I believe this route is in the Bloom book and is listed as climb #13, Unknown 5.11. The whole route climbs 120 feet to an upper anchor. I really like the lower part of this route that climbs to the first anchor. Good stuff.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Oct 17, 2009

The new guide book calls this route Cassey's Route, but still lacks to inform you of the midway anchor. This is a great thin hands splitter to the midway anchor, not to be missed... doesnt really look like anyone ever goes past the midway anchor.
By 303scott
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Good route. I thought the bulge was solid 10+. Does anyone know what the gear is like to the second anchor? It looked a bit thin/absent...
By Travis Haussener
Sep 2, 2013

Fun route, no move is any easier than anything on Scarface IMHO. Pulling the bulge isn't too bad it's really the sand that makes it a pain. There's also a free Green C4 that I (the rope) walked way way (like 16 inches) into the crack.

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