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Case Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Mr Case and friends 1933
Page Views: 2,284
Submitted By: Ian Dibbs on Oct 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Vicinity of the Case Route in late winter of 2016

Description 

An "easy way up" the central depression of Wallface. A combination of; scrambling, you choose when to rope up, tree island linking, climbing, then getting back down.
Given highest grade because of the greatness of the "sum of the parts" .. a true wilderness climbing experience with a little bit of everything, good and bad.

Location 

Central depression ...as usual check Adirondack Rock Guide for the best pictures and info. The route can be seen wonderfully from the hiking trail and you can easily trace the route up. The route zigzags upwards the right side of the central depression through the tress following your own route of least resistant before becoming a rock climb.

From the hiking trail (ADK #125) you need to cut into and upwards to reach the starting point, which is the high point of the central depression, underneath slabby 5.0- 5.2 climbing. Supposedly a trail exists up, my group looking hard but saw no obvious trail (Sept 2014), so we had a very ugly bushwhack. Coming down later we saw a trail (or watercourse ?) for the first top 1/3, then then remaining trail just disappeared into an ugly down bushwhack.. Expect 30-60 minutes to get up from the trail, it's super slow going up due to all the precariously balanced loose rocks. There is a camping site off of the main trail on the flat area and there is a small stream right there. I had heard rumours of a lean-to at Wallface but there wasn't by the Case Route. Just the very suitable campsite.

The route start should be obvious when there, you are at the high point with the big bulge easy to see 75 ft above and to the 75 ft right. The base is spacious, grassy and scenic, there was almost no signs of "trail wear" in September, I suspect ascents are rare..... shame due to the; often repeated "tranquility and big feel of Wallface"

Protection 

Trad, rock and the trees can be used, as expected lots of 4 ft slings.
Protection is a personal experience for much of the route. Use or don't use to your own comfort level ... experienced persons have been known solo the route.


Photos of Case Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of climb is at the high point of the land al...
Start of climb is at the high point of the land al...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start at high point of the land, slabs above you a...
Start at high point of the land, slabs above you a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking towards ; Colden Lake, the Loj, Algonquin,...
Looking towards ; Colden Lake, the Loj, Algonquin,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking from hiking trail .... the route starts ri...
Looking from hiking trail .... the route starts ri...

Comments on Case Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Danick Leduc
From: Montreal
Apr 8, 2017

Looking forward to climb this route next week-end, anyone did it at this time of the year ? Wont be briging crampons and ice axe, doable or not ?
Thanks !!
By Ian Dibbs
Apr 17, 2017

Last weekend (April 10 2017) there was still lots of snow up high on the mountains, and lots of run-off lower down. Me and friend hope to return to Case Route early this summer to try to find, and photograph the entire route ... we'll post on "partners" when we'll try, and invite any/all who wish to join us for some Case Route adventure/ fun.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
May 24, 2017

Beware the easy move on what looks like sound rock. This route (or something close by) is one of the places that I nearly died. I was about to step on a solid looking horn, which also happened to be part of the belay, when I figured it would be good to put something in. I did, and a moment later I was eyeball to eyeball with my belayer, counter-balancing each other off the #7 Stopper I'd placed a moment before. The horn had broken when I stepped on it. Yet I had tested it well (I thought) before incorporating it as part of the belay.
By Ian Dibbs
May 29, 2017

An experience most of us hope to avoid... I thought that "sh*t" was only supposed to happen at Cannon ...

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