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Cascade Canyon

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Friendship Wall 
Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) 
Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) 
Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance) 
Headbanger's Wall 
Restaurant Row (West Side) 

Cascade Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 37.65774, -107.80962 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,705
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: e Dixon on May 25, 2006
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Cascade Canyon in the fall.

Description 

Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes. Most are in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. There is only a handful of easier routes (5.10 and under). Cascade is a great summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and dirty at times. Most of the climbing is on the east side of the canyon. The walls as encountered are called...

Friendship Wall
Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance)
Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)
Headbangers Wall (Free Tibet Sector)
Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area)

Restaurant Row, which is the west side of the canyon, has a good selection of climbs as well.

Per Larry Morton: there were 4 original developers that started back in the early '90s, myself, Steve "Booner " Price, Jay Pezbolt, and Terry Parrish.

Getting There 

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right. Look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon.

Per Luke Mehall: there is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet.

UPDATE - the Tyrolean that was installed to provide access to Restaurant Row (West Side) was stolen.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

57 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',19],['5.12',16],['5.13',8],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cascade Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cascade Canyon:
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari   V9-10 7C+     Boulder, 10'   Garden of Eden Wall (Pool A...
One Summer's Eve   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Garden of Eden Wall (Pool A...
Colorfest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Garden of Eden Wall (Pool A...
Genesis   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Genesis Wall (Canyon Entran...
Book of Life   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Genesis Wall (Canyon Entran...
The War Has Started   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Garden of Eden Wall (Pool A...
Close To The Edge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Garden of Eden Wall (Pool A...
A Gentlehoe   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Futurescape Wall (Roof Area...
The Red Sea   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Genesis Wall (Canyon Entran...
30 and Dirty   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Genesis Wall (Canyon Entran...
Some People Poop   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Headbanger's Wall
Night Moves   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Headbanger's Wall
Tibet Arête (originally submitted as Track Team)   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Headbanger's Wall
Reverse Cowgirl    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Headbanger's Wall
Super Twerk   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Headbanger's Wall
La Cantina   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Futurescape Wall (Roof Area...
El Rancho    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Futurescape Wall (Roof Area...
Hammer and a Carrot    5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Headbanger's Wall
El Jefe   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Futurescape Wall (Roof Area...
Sweatpants in Public    5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Futurescape Wall (Roof Area...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cascade Canyon

Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The hard, midway crux that guards the last good re...

Sweatpants in Public 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  Colorado : Durango : ... : Futurescape Wall (Roof Area...
Sweatpants is a big, steep monster of a route climbing out the center of the Roof Wall on the best section of stone (with one 8 foot section of junk). The first portion of the route is characterized by hard boulder problems separated by easier climbing with a the hardest guarding a big rest at the 50 foot mark. From here, the route gets much steeper, and it's a thuggy, 20 foot power endurance race to the chains.Sweatpants will also test one's powers of beta memory and technical trickery....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Cascade Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.
Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pool.
The Pool.

Comments on Cascade Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 26, 2017
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 4, 2012
Who the hell is bolting routes at Cascade? Doesn't everyone know that they are just bolting choss. I've already looked at those lines years ago, and they look like they are screaming trash. I mean climbing is here for us, we shouldn't be disturbing the balance of nature. Keep your bolts to yourself, because all the other bolted lines were natural.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Sep 13, 2012
Glad to see new routes going in. As one of the original developers, we always knew there were a few gems left. Gotta get over there and try the new stuff. Thanks to those making the effort.
By Erik Durgin
Oct 25, 2012
There are a handful of routes in the canyon with draws hanging on them. They were not abandoned or left by accident. People are projecting these routes and the draws are intentionally left in place to ease the process.

Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place!
By Nolan Robertson
Jun 14, 2013
If you find a dog here, please contact me, my number is (local)-7494416
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jun 17, 2013
Doesn't the sign say Lime Creek on the highway? It is Lime Creek road.
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 19, 2016
There is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. Big thanks to Eric Dixon who installed the anchors, who has also been adding some sweet routes over there on the West Side! The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet.
By Larry Morton
Dec 15, 2016
After looking at the route list, it's funny how time "changes" history. The local guidebook authors didn't respect others hard work, poached their routes, renaming others, and completely got lost in the history that really took place in the canyon, sad really.

There were 4 original developers that started back in the early '90s, myself, Steve "Booner " Price, Jay Pezbolt, and Terry Parrish.

Steve put up Cherub (Tim Kuss chopped it), In the Beginning, Wind of Change, Colorfest, and a really nice thin face left of Babel.

Jay put up Rozenkranz, Gildenstern, Gardening at Night, and Babel.

Terry put up Respecting the Law (crack), Free Tibet, and Still Waiting.

I bolted Cut Loose, Revelation, Red Sea, Genesis, Book of Life, Noah's Ark (aka Peer Pressure), Pulling Teeth, By Tor and the Cur Dog, Billy Manilly (unfinished, hangers stolen), Wicked Sensation, God of Thunder, Answer to the Master, The Temptation, One Summer's Eve, Close to the Edge, Charlie Brown's Christmas Tree, Cafe Cascade, The Red Snapper, and The Oaks.

Walking into the canyon, the walls were named Friendship Wall (small wall with 2 chopped routes, Cherub, and Cut Loose), Genesis Wall from Revelation to Noah's Ark Arete, Futurescape Wall (aka Roof Area) which is from Respecting the Law crack to the upper cave. Headbangers Wall (aka Free Tibet area) from By Tor and the Cur Dog down to Colorfest, Garden of Eden Wall from The Temptation (left of Colorfest) to Close to the Edge at pool. Across the river, that whole wall was called Restaurant Row.

There was one other dude named Jason who put up about 3-4 routes as well, and Tim Kuss put up a crack down by the waterfall. I think Track Team that started just left of Free Tibet, bolts and gear.

So there you have it, a small history lesson on Cascade Canyon. I visited recently, and there are many new routes, some lines we looked at back in the day, but they were super hard looking, so we left them alone for better climbers than ourselves. So good job, people! I just hope that CC doesn't get over bolted where the routes become contrived, it's a beautiful place.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Dec 17, 2016
Obviously, your original nomenclature must be reinstated, running the whole gamut of this lovely gorge once again.
By Erik Durgin
Dec 19, 2016
Larry,
thanks so much for the comment. I think it's really important to understand and respect the history of a climbing area. Thank you for your hard work, I have enjoyed your routes for years.

I share your concern with Cascade becoming over bolted. Recently some serious squeeze jobs have been added, and it would be a damn shame if this continues. To anyone considering adding a new route to the canyon, please keep the lines independent. If your potential route is within arm's length to an existing line, please DO NOT bolt it!

It would be great if an administrator would change the names of the walls to what the original developers had given them.
By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
Jul 18, 2017
If you're bolting a worthwhile new line at Cascade, feel free to PM me, and I'll buy you some Mussy hooks for the anchors.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 31, 2017
Nice to see Larry Morton clarify some of the history in the canyon.
Also nice that the issues we dealt with BITD during development seem to no longer exist. Truly a shame that many of the original names were changed and that routes ended up being chopped to satisfy the desires of one self-entitled individual.
By e Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 14, 2017
Thanks to Larry for the great history of the area. It is good to see that wall and route names are being changed to reflect the originals. Also thanks to Larry, Steve, & Co. for your efforts in establishing so many early Cascade classics!
By e Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 14, 2017
The Tyrolean that was installed to provide access to Restaurant Row (West Side) was stolen.
By greg rosselol
Aug 26, 2017
Hey Luke or Eric, I have some good static line I could donate for the Tyrolean. I'm only in town til Tues if you can catch me granita3@yahoo.com.

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