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Mt. Shasta
Routes Sorted
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Avalanche Gulch 
Casaval Ridge 
Green Butte Ridge 
Hotlum Glacier Route 
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge 
West Face Gully 

Casaval Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Mod. Snow [details]
FA: FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson
Season: Spring/Winter
Page Views: 8,152
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Nov 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

This is a great training route that can be done in a long day, though most will choose to spend a night on the ridge. Probably the best route from the Bunny Flat Trailhead.

Location 

From Horse Camp climb the obvious ridge to the left. This joins Casaval at about 9,800 ft. Follow this ridge to the base of Misery Hill and then to the top.

Descent via West Face Gully or Avalanche Gulch is the easiest choice for parties doing this without setting up a base camp. Otherwise, descend back down the route (this is the safer choice during high avalanche danger as well).

Protection 

Solo. Some parties choose to bring a rope and a few pickets to belay the exposed "catwalk" depending on conditions and experience.


Photos of Casaval Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just me and the skis on a one day solo mission up ...
Just me and the skis on a one day solo mission up ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Mt. Shasta
BETA PHOTO: Summit of Mt. Shasta
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the Catwalk
Just before the Catwalk
Rock Climbing Photo: A party belaying the catwalk. Pretty decent exposu...
BETA PHOTO: A party belaying the catwalk. Pretty decent exposu...
Rock Climbing Photo: the "Catwalk."
BETA PHOTO: the "Catwalk."
Rock Climbing Photo: A party on one of the steeper portions of the ridg...
BETA PHOTO: A party on one of the steeper portions of the ridg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back after gaining the ridge. About 10,500...
Looking back after gaining the ridge. About 10,500...
Rock Climbing Photo: Casaval Ridge is the ridgeline on the left
BETA PHOTO: Casaval Ridge is the ridgeline on the left
Rock Climbing Photo: Catwalk, most fun part of the day, crux was much l...
Catwalk, most fun part of the day, crux was much l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Casaval Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Casaval Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back on Casaval Ridge from the summit. The...
BETA PHOTO: Looking back on Casaval Ridge from the summit. The...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last part of the ridge. Follow this part of th...
BETA PHOTO: The last part of the ridge. Follow this part of th...

Comments on Casaval Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2010

Thinking about running up this route as a more fun alternative to avalanche gulch.

How hard is routefinding? Both gaining the ridge, and the ridgeline before misery hill?

How much rock were you climbing versus snow? When do you think conditions will be best?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 11, 2011

FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson.
By Don Morris
From: Denver, CO
Apr 2, 2013

Recommend high camp before summit at 11,800 feet. Also called the second window. A ski descent from here into Avalanche Gulch can be made.