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Ridge 1
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Arrogant Bastard S 
Casana Rojo S 
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Golden Shower S 
Impersonator, The S 
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Inseminator P1 S 
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Straight A Student T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Casana Rojo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Woolf and Jeff Frizell
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    This line is on the upper reaches of Ridge 1, in a sector with significant new route activity.From the prominent dihedral, it is uphill about twenty feet.

    This is a very short line (35-40 feet), but it packs a lot of punch!Two cruxes lie above. The first is at about 15 feet where a sick tendony mono is encountered. The second is at about 25 feet where you run into a tricky and powerful roof sequence.Both crux sequences are about 12a.One of the best short lines around!

    This line was originally protected by only 3 bolts, but the first ascensionist added 1 bolt to temper the nasty ground fall potential.

    Protection 

    4 bolts to anchors


    Comments on Casana Rojo Add Comment
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    By Chris Archer
    Jun 1, 2004
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Good climbing (low in the grade) that is marred somewhat by bolt placements. The second bolt is in a depression that loads the biner in a way that stresses the gate in a disconcerting fashion. You can't flip the biner either because of the pocket that it is drilled in. placing the bolt on any of the flat rock nearby would eliminate this and not affect the clip. The last bolt placement is also at an odd location. Extend it with a long sling or two so your rope is clipped in below the sharp overhang. A better location would have been up and left of its present location in the bulge.
    By Tzilla Rapdrilla
    Jan 27, 2006

    Considering when this route went in it may have been drilled by hand. One more recent bolt has been added.

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