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l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 
Almost Pure and Simple T 
Art's Route T 
Bone Hard T 
Boron Destroyer T 
Casa Emilio T 
Casablanca T 
Casanova T 
Counterstrike T 
Crack of Despondency T 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 
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Lone Ranger, The T 
Meat By-Products T,TR 
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 
Pfui Teufel T 
Ranger's Revenge T 
Roger's Escape Hatch T 
Tennish Anyone? T 
Trigger Point T 
V.D. T 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 


YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1973
Page Views: 4,682
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on May 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Josh in his Tennessee orange. Go Vols.


P1: About 30' right of the huge right-facing corner, climb up past a left-facing flake to a small overhang. Up and slightly left to a small right-facing corner, then diagonal up right to the overhang, heading for the obvious flake. Clear the overhang at the flake (long reach) then diagonal up left to a belay at a (questionably alive) tree with slings and rings. 5.9, 90'.

This pitch used to be called 5.8+ but is 5.9 in the latest Williams guide. I'd say it's easier than that if you're 5'9", and harder than that if you're 5'6".

P2: Head up slightly right to a ledge. Then up trending left past a short left-facing corner. 5.5, 100'.


Standard rack


This route is located at the far end of the Trapps, just before the S-turn in the carriage road where one exits for Sleepy Hollow. There is a yellow-blazed tree to mark the faint trail, which initially heads up a short, steep embankment. Follow blazes and cairns from there to a very large block, passing it on the right. Head left at the base of the cliff. The first pitch can be rappelled with one 60m rope. From the top of the 2nd pitch, walk left and rappel Casa Emilio, or walk further and descend Roger's Escape Hatch.

Photos of Casablanca Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matching on the good edge, which also makes a disc...
Matching on the good edge, which also makes a disc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Casablanca 5.8
Casablanca 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky Diamond beginning the diagonal up right to t...
Becky Diamond beginning the diagonal up right to t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky Diamond protecting the lip in the creaky fla...
Becky Diamond protecting the lip in the creaky fla...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from under the roof on a fall day.
View from under the roof on a fall day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the roof.
Approaching the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging on the big, creaky flake
Hanging on the big, creaky flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the piton under the roof on Casablanca.
BETA PHOTO: Clipping the piton under the roof on Casablanca.
Rock Climbing Photo: About to pull the roof.
About to pull the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof
Pulling the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: The piton under the roof looks a little sketchy, I...
BETA PHOTO: The piton under the roof looks a little sketchy, I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just off the ground, approaching the left-facing f...
Just off the ground, approaching the left-facing f...

Comments on Casablanca Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2015
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

In the photo of the girl placing the #1 Camalot (what is it with # 1 Camalots), I chose to use a smaller cam and moved it to the right as far as I could, hoping it would be less likely to rip out due to the flex in the flake...

I'm 5'8" and I was able to reach the hold without performing any magic tricks.

Otherwise a great roof climb, especially when the feet cut loose.

While you're there, Casa Emilio at 5.4 has a nice top pitch; great for new leaders.
By Zach Allen
Nov 20, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route on a beautiful part of the cliff. I'm 5'6" and didn't find the difficulty to be height dependent.
By Bob Hayes
Apr 23, 2007

Great first pitch. Don't bother with the second pitch even though Williams gives it a thumbs up. It's got little to offer in terms of movement and the lichen is still pretty thick.
By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Nov 9, 2009

Concur with Bob H. that 2nd pitch has little to offer. One of the worst pitches I have done at the Gunks. Plenty of lichen and pine needles. Loose block just above the nice ledge about a third of the way up.
By Jay Harrison
Jan 17, 2010

I can't believe that casketizer flake at the crux is still there. It gave me the shivers cranking on it 30 years ago.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 22, 2011

I liked the climb, but the pins and the flake are indeed sketchy. While standing on the flexing flake (protected from the back with a "bomber" number 3 C4), I also felt the best horizontal over the roof wiggling. Seems like there's a ton of choss under the roof as well. Then again, it's probably been that way for a long time. Climb on!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Another one of those astounding Gunks crux flakes!
By Byron Igoe
Oct 13, 2013

The little pine tree with slings seems half dead. There's a tricam as backup, but the rappel from P1 still felt sketchy.
By akline
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

i can't believe the girl in the photo put a cam behind that flake and it is still there! the climbing is not hard, but the protection in the roofs is sketchy, those flakes definitely move and the pitons that are in place to protect them are bad, at best. i backed up the first pitch rappel tree with a tricam on 5/20/14 because that tree is certainly half alive.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Oct 26, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Between the questionable flakes and the rotten pin pulling this roof is a bit of a sketchfest ... but otherwise a good time ... the guy that mentioned placing a cam to the right may be onto something, the flake does get more solid that way. People have been yarding on those holds for years and they are still there, but man I would not want to take a fall on any of that gear.
By Frank F
From: Bend, OR
Nov 3, 2014

I'm 5'4" and found the reach to the decent holds to be looong. There are some small intermediate holds, but they're a red herring. I found the key was to really get my feet high before moving over.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 10, 2015

As of 8/9/15 beware of the hornet's nest in the left side, orange face below the roof. Fun climb. Looooonnnnggg reach for this 5'2" shortie. Very fun. A bit run out on the easier climbing below the roof.
By sevans
Oct 27, 2015

As of today (10/27/15) the fixed pin under the roof is no longer there. It pulled from rope tension while I was lowering a climber. A black Alien goes in nicely behind the squareish block the pin was in.

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