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Casa Diablo Mountain

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First Wave Buttress 
Parking Lot Crag 

Casa Diablo Mountain Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 37.5758, -118.5556 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,153
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: liveit P on Mar 26, 2012

71° | 36°

73° | 36°

74° | 37°

75° | 36°

67° | 33°

68° | 32°
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BETA PHOTO: Boulder = The Ancestor Featured problem = Cry Danc...


Casa Diablo Mountain is situated in the middle of the Long Valley Caldera, with spectacular views of the White, Glass, and Sierra Nevada Mountains.
There are only a few routes here, but development is taking place. Half the climbs are north facing and the other half west facing.
This is a great mild weather climbing spot that is lower than the Mammoth area climbs and sits a bit higher than the Owens River Gorge.
There are a fair number of easy and moderate climbs here.

Getting There 

From the 395 head east on Benton Crossing Rd. Drive 18 miles and turn right on a dirt road (3S02) (The Mammoth Area Rock Climbs guide says there is a sign, but it is very weathered)

Drive for a few miles (6 or 7ish) on a great dirt road (one of the best I have been on in the Sierras)Keep left at the first T (still 3S02) Continue on 3S02 and at the second T stay right (still 3S02) ^Check out the photos below of these turns ^

You will now be running parallel to Casa Diablo Mountain, Turn left between two trees on 04S134. Continue on a washboarded road and take the left turn onto 04S134F There is a small round parking area.

From the parking you can see a few climbs, these climbs are not in the guide book, the ones in the guide book are on the left side of the rocks.

Climbing Season

Weather station 17.1 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Casa Diablo Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Casa Diablo Mountain:
Unknown A   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   Parking Lot Crag
Unknown E   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Parking Lot Crag
Unknown D   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Parking Lot Crag
Step Up or Ketchup   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot Crag
The Rubster   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Parking Lot Crag
Crystal Tips   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Parking Lot Crag
Fat Bastard   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Parking Lot Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Casa Diablo Mountain

Featured Route For Casa Diablo Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown J Topo

My First Time 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Parking Lot Crag
This climbs the huge huecos up onto the easy angle slab above....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Casa Diablo Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on the final moves of The Rubster on a per...
High up on the final moves of The Rubster on a per...
Rock Climbing Photo: Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...
Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...
Rock Climbing Photo: The views are blowing of the mind!
The views are blowing of the mind!
Rock Climbing Photo: Last turn toward the crag Sign reads 04S134F
BETA PHOTO: Last turn toward the crag Sign reads 04S134F
Rock Climbing Photo: First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134
BETA PHOTO: First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134
Rock Climbing Photo: Casa Diablo Mountian
BETA PHOTO: Casa Diablo Mountian

Comments on Casa Diablo Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
From: Mammoth Lakes
Apr 30, 2012
When driving it can be easy to miss the first left turn after about a mile. If you take the right fork, you could find yourself all the way at pocketopia.
By maggie-girl Wenski
Oct 13, 2013
Lots of drilling happening out there! Loud... Happy to finally see some route info.
By Brandon Matthes
Jan 3, 2014
Great place with stellar views, and a nice break from the crowded boulders in bishop and the owens river gorge. From what I climbed its super super fun stuff and nice amount of protection (bolted almost gym like, didn't mind it a bit.) Reminiscent of Joshua Tree style rock.
By climbing coastie
From: Wasilla, AK
Nov 10, 2016
As of Nov 2016 road 134 is not wash boarded, it's more like washed out. Better have a high clearance vehicle, not sure even a Subaru would make it without damage.
By Mike Decker
May 4, 2017
One of my favorite spots, now is the perfect time to be out there. The last little road is kind of dicey, but not too bad if you're careful, just straddle the ditch. It looks like there's been some new development out there on the big green wall. If anyone knows who's been putting those up, I'd like to talk to them. I've got my eye on some potential routes nearby, want to make sure I'm not snaking them. I've also been bolting some other stuff farther up canyon, details to come once I've got all the FAs.
By Mike Decker
May 4, 2017
Also, can I petition to move area this under Sierra Eastside > Eastern Hills instead of Mammoth area. Seems like a better fit to include this with Benton. The Sherwin plateau could be moved too.

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