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Magic Mountain
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Advanced Placement T 
Birthday Party T 
Bottle Bill T 
Brain Drain T 
Bro's Before Holes T 
Cartwright Corner T 
Chocolate Cornhole T 
Chocolate flakes T 
Community Pillar T 
Dark and Long T 
Edge of the Sun T 
Five and Dime T 
Five Pack T 
Honeycomb Chimney T 
Magic Triangle T 
Masquerade T 
Saucerful of Secrets T 
Small Purchase T 
Texas Longneck T 

Cartwright Corner 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Harrison, Nordblom, Van Betten, Broussard 1985.
Season: spring /fall
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Clint Locks on Nov 23, 2006  with updates from Clint Locks

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Steve Levin (l) on P3 and Chris Grosshans (r) on t...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin in a recess below Chocolate Flakes.
P1-Climb a shallow corner up (.8) until you reach a big, sloping ledge with bushes. Go another 15 feet up and belay. Move that belay around the corner 30 feet to climber's left. The 2nd pitch begins there.
P2-Climb the corner into a wide crack (.9) to a ledge and belay out right (below an overhanging off-width which is NOT on route).
P3-Move left back into the crack system. Place gear left in the crack and face climb a bit, soon moving into the corner, up to a ledge, through an intimidating but beautiful off-width (.8). Exit that, and up a short wall to belay at climber's right of the sloping ramp. (NOTE: notice the 2 bolt anchor for Chocolate Flakes down and right).
P4-The Money Pitch. Move the belay to the left side of the ramp (or don't) and begin the memorable stemming corner (10b) with sustained and interesting moves with good enough protection, including one bolt. There are a few flakes of questionable quality on this pitch. Be gentle. Belay in a corner at a semi-hanging stance. One can rap with 2 ropes from here, or continue...
P5-Out right and negotiate a wide crack (10a?) for 10 feet and move left into a gully. Short pitch--60 feet or so.
P6-Continue left in the gully and join the final pitch of Community Pillar (recommended), then scramble the remaining 400 feet to the top.

See descent for Community Pillar and Magic Mountain. It's a bit complicated if it's your first time up there.


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By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Apr 9, 2007

Both Swain's and Brock's topos for this route are awful. it is not a long continuous corner. There is much scwacking and scrambling between pitches, and the routefinding (esp pitch 4) is challenging. Definitely not 5 stars and I'm pretty sure Roxanna hasn't climbed it. Glad I didn't buy her book!

The way I went on the 4th pitch was a thin corner with some airy barndoor moves and 1 bolt 1/2 way up. I didn't see any 4th class exit, just a 8" overhanging offwidth...so we bailed w/one rope and it made it. Don't trust any anchor bolts on this climb. An AMGA guide broke both ankles on this route.
By Jason D. Martin
Apr 10, 2007

The guide broke one ankle when he fell leading. The combination of bad rock and gear placements in bad rock didn't help his predicament. It sounds like his fall was due to pulling off a hold at a sketchy spot.

The guide was slated to take his $1500 rock guide's exam the following day. I don't know if he got a refund or a credit. But I do know that he wasn't a happy camper...

Jason
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 19, 2007

The only route I bailed off of in Red Rock and will never return to complete. Its a total thrash to get to the main event, which ends up being way spookier than you think it would be. I can't imagine leading the upper part of this route-- overhanging offwidths? In what world is that 5.10?

That said, Chocolate Flakes off right looks pretty sweet....too bad the approach pitches make it a less than appealing climb.
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I liked this route. The crux for me was climbing a run out chimney to a roof that had to be pulled. No harder than 5.10. The old guide book did give a horrible description. If I remember, there was a lot more wide stuff than I had expected. Old school exciting and satisfying. I hear Chocolate Flakes is a better option if you're in this gully.