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Ativan Grin T 
Cartwheel T 
Choad, The T 
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DARK HALF, The T,S 
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Into the Groove S 
Long Arm of the Aug T 
Numb Bunion T 

Cartwheel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: Laine Christman on Jun 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: cartwheel/ numbunion formation

Description 

Climb up to a horizontal crack, continue up the crack that goes straight through an obvious roof then jogs left and up a steep wall to a slab. The chains are set back 10 feet on the slab.

Note- the original route required one to "cartwheel" across a blank section to the base of the slab, however Mark Bauer did a more direct and exciting variation to the chains.

Location 

Located up and right of The Dark Half

Protection 

Pro to 1.5", wires and micros useful. For the last 20 feet the pro is questionable.


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By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
May 8, 2014

Agreed on the questionable pro up higher. I placed a good .1 BD, then a tiny brass wire, then a psychological green link cam in junky rock... It's not very hard climbing up there, but definitely take care.

Not a reason not to climb this thing, I thought it was a lot of fun.
By Ensign
From: Zephyr Cove, NV
Jul 2, 2017

I would also agree on the questionable protection on the upper section of the route. Slider nuts were helpful in the very thin crack up there. I got a questionable cam from a suboptimal stance in the final steep bit, trembled and fretted my way through that, then was able to get a good TCU in the easy slabby traverse to the anchor.

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